When you think of cocktail components, often the ingredients that come to mind are gins, vodkas, whisk(e)ys; perhaps rum, lemon and lime juice and simple syrup.
But bitters remain the unsung heroes of cocktails.
Originally crafted as a medicinal cure-all in the Medieval age, just a few drops of these high-proof infusions will add backbone to a cocktail. A dash or two will bring layers of depth and complexity to a drink.
Lauren Mote had an innate understanding of the importance of bitters when she started Bittered Sling with her partner chef Jonathan Chovancek in 2012. Since then, Mote has built the brand into one of the most creative bitters available, conjuring up little bottles of fascinating flavors seldom found in the cocktail realm.
Bittered Sling started when Mote started making her own bitters for bar programs in Vancouver. “The idea grew from there—how do we take this essential cocktail seasoning and create a retail line?” describes Mote.
Now, the brand has gone from a bar program flex to a full-fledged brand offering dozens of flavors. “Bittered Sling is thrilled to be included in the @drinksinternational Annual Brands report, finishing at #5 on the Top Trending Cocktail Bitters,” says Chovancek. “For us, this is a huge moment. We could have only dreamed 9 years ago for this special nod.”
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And the brand is just one of a vanguard of bitters bottles helping blow up the category.
In 1999, only two bitters producers existed on shelves: Angostura and Peychaud’s. Now, there are dozens of brands producing hundreds of flavors.
The bitters market is borderline overwhelming, with seemingly every flavor under the sun existing in tincture form. There are orange bitters, but also Jamaican Jerk and Memphis Barbecue Bitters (both made by Bitter End Bitters). Fee Brothers counts rhubarb and peach as products, while New Orleans-based El Guapo has gumbo, crawfish boil, and chicory pecan flavors. Bitter Tears makes pumpkin spice mezcal bitters, bacon peppercorn, lavender, and tamarind options.
Bottles fall in the $20 to $30 range. (That may seem like a steep price tag, but consider that you only add a drop or two per drink. At 120 milliliters a bottle, one bottle goes a long way.)
Bittered Sling also goes the untraditional route when it comes to flavorings. But while a majority of bitters brands zero in on crafting flavors strictly for the conscious cocktailer, Mote and Chovancek flex both of their disciplines—he’s a notable chef, and she’s an award-winning bartender. Their bitters lend themselves to a range of applications, both dishes and drinks.
“Chefs always have a different perception and understanding of flavors compared to bartenders and sommeliers, but it’s with all of these perceptions together that our products are so complex, interesting and balanced,” describes Mote. “Without the combination of understanding and palates from all angles, the beauty and uniqueness of our products would not be possible. Jonathan has an incredibly focused palate and dreams in bold flavors and big colors. It’s extraordinary.”
Use Lem-Marrakech with tequilas and sherry or add a few dashes to a hollandaise to finish. Sub out vanilla extract for these bitters in a cake recipe.
The Kensington Aromatic bitters (the name is a nod to the weird and wonderful Toronto market) are excellent in a Sazerac, likewise, a marinade or a soup.
With access to both chef and bartender palates, the duo has built out a stable of flavors that highlight out-of-the-box ingredients. Particularly Canadian ones—locally-grown ingredients like haskap berry and wild oregano take starring roles.
Every bottle starts at Vernon’s Okanagan Spirits, where distillates are made from local apples and grapes. No artificial flavors or sugars are used—ingredients are sourced from small, oft-local producers. (Mote and Chovancek make an effort to source ingredients and botanicals from fair-trade producers both domestically and abroad, if not local.)
“Okanagan Valley is where most of Bittered Sling’s British Columbia farm-products come from—peaches, cherries, cranberries, wild hops, and crabapples,” describes Chovancek. “Within the Bittered Sling family, we are committed to reducing our carbon footprint by using recycled glass, shipping bulk bitters where possible to select, large volume partner clients and using recycled fruit & grain spirits. We have been 99% free of single-use plastics since our inception in 2010.”
“We capture the character of our recipes using Canadian fruit and grain spirit, and manufacture in the beautiful Okanagan Valley in British Columbia,” he continues. “We are a truly Canadian story of diverse, internationally recognized flavors, promoting classic use for professional and home bartenders, as well as a great addition to zero proof, low proof, holistic and mindful drinks.”
Their holistic approach extends outside of sourcing. “We make an effort and commitment to champion causes like Dandelion Initiative, Speed Rack, International Women’s Day and Women’s History Month as a way to use our platform and voice to help create change,” says Mote.
“Jonathan and I have always pushed for equality and have never been afraid to speak out on what we believe to be right and wrong—for ourselves and others. We feel grateful to be in a position where a stage is set at a high level, providing a safe space for the right discussions. In my role with Bittered Sling and as the Global Cocktailian, it’s important that I’m treating each opportunity as a chance to inspire steps in the right direction, spark conversation, and mobilize people towards a “can do” attitude, especially in our wider drinks industry; each presentation, interview and face to face conversation needs to be part of that opportunity. The diversity of opinions and the inclusion of all humans creates a richer conversation, with a healthier output. This is a huge part of Bittered Sling’s brand purpose, vision and mission statement as a company.”
This slow-food approach to bitters is ultimately what has allowed the brand to meet demand over the last decade. “As Bittered Sling continues to grow, and the products become available to more people in more markets, we are learning a great deal about scalability. The slow and steady growth of Bittered Sling over the last nine years has allowed the company to grow properly without compromising any aspect of our product’s integrity,” says Chovancek.
This brand’s small-batch mentality has attracted the likes of big spirits brands. Late 2020, Bittered Sling launched a Tropical Citrus Heart bitters in collaboration with bartender Fabio La Pietra (of SubAstor, São Paulo, Brazil) and Tanqueray No. TEN Gin. “[It showcases] the flavors of Brazil and the Amazon in dynamic bitters used to amplify incredible gin-based cocktails,” says Mote. “Jonathan’s palate was critical in the creation.”
This year, expect the brand to continue expanding into more global markets—great news for cocktail drinkers.