48 hours in . . . Orlando, an insider guide to the home of the theme park

Thanks, Disney, we’ll take it from here…

Most people who visit ‘Orlando’ never truly see it. They arrive at Orlando International Airport and head straight for the theme parks. The city actually lies 15 miles north-east and often goes unnoticed in the rush for Disney and co – which is a major oversight, as it’s home to some of Florida’s most original experiences.

True, Orlando barely figured in the state’s top cities before the 1971 opening of Walt Disney World and the tourism-fuelled boom it generated. But a funny thing happened through the 1990s and 2000s – the city reasserted its character, diversity and creativity. Hip districts emerged as thousands moved downtown, and a thriving young, urban culture mushroomed to create craft breweries, cutting-edge restaurants and vibrant nightlife. Now, if you don’t make an effort to see The City Beautiful, you’re missing the best part of Orlando: Lake Eola, Winter Park, Mills 50 and Ivanhoe Village are among the many compelling districts and suburbs. 

Simon and Susan Veness, our resident experts, offers their top tips on the hottest things to do and places to eat, drink and stay this season.

Do

Take flight with one of the most beloved Harry Potter characters of all time at Universal’s Islands of Adventure park (6000 Universal Blvd; 00 1 407 224 4233), where Hagrid’s Magical Creatures Motorbike Adventure is now open. Expect a wild roller-coaster ride with a unique story-telling twist.

• The best things to do in Orlando

Stay

Universal Orlando has its first budget-priced resort in the shape of Surfside Inn & Suites (7000 Universal Blvd; 00 1 407 503 7000): a slick, lively 750-room hotel that offers early entry to Universal’s parks without the higher price of its other six resorts.

• The best hotels in Orlando

Day One

MORNING

Start with breakfast at the totally Instagrammable Craft & Common (47 E. Robinson Street; 00 1 407 723 8078), where their Pacific Fog – a cold-brew latte with lavender and Himalayan sea salt – is a heavenly concoction for caffeine-lovers. Then, stroll the two blocks to the Orange County Regional History Center [sic] (65 E. Central Boulevard; 00 1 407 836 8500), noting how compact and pedestrian-friendly the downtown area is. Two hours here will give you the full lowdown on Orlando’s history, its 19th-century frontier heritage, and the story of the Florida Highwaymen – a unique group of African American artists who emerged in the 1950s.

AFTERNOON

Stop in at the CityArts Factory (39 S. Magnolia Avenue; 00 1 407 648 7060) for a showcase of the region’s thriving arts culture, which includes a Young Artists Gallery and challenging topics such as the role of art in the community.

Then, take a 10-minute stroll for lunch at French-inspired DoveCote Brasserie (390 N. Orange Avenue; 00 1 407 930 1700), which highlights how the city has developed its own culinary character. Chef Clay Miller, who honed his skills at California’s famous French Laundry and may just produce the best onion soup in Florida, brings classic French cooking to downtown Orlando in this posh but approachable brasserie.

Loch Haven Park is perfect for an afternoon wander, encompassing three lakes, theatres and museums, as well as the Orlando Science Center, which is ideal for families (777 E. Princeton Street; 00 1 407 514 2000). Make time for either the Mennello Museum of American Art (900 E. Princeton Street; 00 1 407 246 4278), with its outstanding collection of work by folk artist Earl Cunningham, or the Orlando Museum of Art (2416 N. Mills Avenue; 00 1 407 896 4213), which features a leading collection of art of the Ancient Americas as well as contemporary graphics.

LATE

Stay in this area to explore happening Mills 50, one of 10 burgeoning ‘districts’ that come alive after dark with a choice of bars, cafés, street art, markets and nightclubs, including ‘Little Vietnam’. Mills is packed with locals’ staples like top restaurant pick Black Bean Deli (1835 E. Colonial Drive; 00 1 407 203 0922), where the Cuban cuisine is some of the best outside Havana, and Will’s Pub (1042 N Mills Ave), an indie music hangout since 1995 that also boasts an ever-changing array of excellent micro-brews.

Enjoy happy hour (4-8pm) at craft-cocktail-infused The Guesthouse (1321 Mills Avenue N; 00 1 407 630 6574) or the chic Ten10 Brewing Company (1010 Virginia Drive; 00 1 407 930 8993), where tasty bar snacks are offered along with their excellent ales and signature root beer.

Make time for an evening stroll around Lake Eola, the city’s photogenic centrepiece. With its central fountain, swan boats and Walt Disney Amphitheatre, it’s eye-candy at sunset. Top things off with a cocktail on the terrace of in the jazz-infused Bosendorfer Lounge of the nearby Grand Bohemian Hotel (325 S. Orange Avenue; 00 1 407 313 9000), where the Angels Martini is truly heavenly.

• The best things to do in Orlando

Day Two

MORNING

Head north for Winter Park, where breakfast at Briarpatch (252 Park Avenue N; 00 1 407 628 8651) is practically compulsory – don’t miss their trademark eggs Benedict – before a day of cultural immersion. The Scenic Boat Tour (312 E. Morse Boulevard; 00 1 407 644 4056) starts at 10am and is the perfect introduction to the tropical landscapes, lakes and opulence of the area.

When coupled with the boutique Morse Museum (445 N. Park Avenue; 00 1 407 645 5311), home to the world’s largest collection of work by Louis Comfort Tiffany, and, time permitting, Cornell Fine Arts Museum in the heart of beautiful Rollins College (1000 Holt Avenue; 00 1 407 646 2526), it offers a well-rounded view of the neighbourhood’s charms.

AFTERNOON

Lunching at one of the many sidewalk cafés is another Winter Park staple – try Italian gastropub Prato, which serves house-made pastas and authentic pizzas – try the spicy Diavolo with Provolone Piccante imported from the historic Auricchio company in Cremona.

Afterwards, browse the one-off boutiques of Park Avenue and Hannibal Square, where super-trendy Rifle Paper Co (558 W New England Ave; 00 1 407 622 7679), Peterbrooke Chocolatier (300 S Park Ave; 00 1 407 644 3200) and Caswell-Massey (130 N Park Ave; 00 1 407 645 5100) – “America’s original perfumers” – offer a range of unique gifts.

After the polish of Winter Park, it’s time for rustic Gatorland (14501 S. Orange Blossom Trail; 00 1 407 855 5496), a 110-acre wildlife preserve dating back to 1949 that is still family-owned. Unlike the theme parks, this is pure, condensed Florida, showcasing the plant and animal life native to the state. The headline attractions are hundreds of alligators – from hatchlings to old timers – that inhabit the swamps and ponds. There are several shows, animal exhibits, and the chance to zipline over the gator marsh (be brave – it’s fun!).

LATE

Orange Avenue and Church Street are where most downtown locals head after dark for a packed array of nightlife, from the LGBTQ-friendly Hamburger Mary’s (110 W Church St; 00 1 321 319 0600) and Southern Nights (375 S Bumby Ave; 00 1 407 412 5039) to the all-out party vibe of Wall Street Plaza (26 Wall Street; 00 1 407 849 0471), with seven venues where revellers often take over the whole street. Speakeasy-type bars are also popular – seek out Mathers Social Gathering (30 S Magnolia Ave; 00 1 407 250 5005) for the ‘in’ crowd or Hanson’s Shoe Repair (27 E Pine St; 00 1 407 476 9446) for Prohibition-era style. 

Oh, and you’ll need dinner. Kres Chophouse (17 W. Church Street; 00 1 407 447 7950) serves juicy steaks and seafood in best supper-club ambiance, while Ceviche (125 W. Church Street; 00 1 321 281 8140) is a must-try choice for its tapas. 

• The best nightlife in Orlando

Park pick

Africa comes to central Florida in Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge, where giraffes, zebras, and other grazing animals roam just beyond your window. Theme is everything at Walt Disney World, and this deluxe thatched-roof resort, based on traditional safari lodges, is one of the most inspired creations. Original African art abounds, floor-to-ceiling windows and cosy balconies overlook the savannah, and there’s a large pool.

Double rooms from $358 (£258). 2901 Osceola Parkway Blvd; 00 1 407 938 3000

Luxury Living

A superbly stylish hotel that adds an artistic flourish to the heart of downtown Orlando, the Grand Bohemian Hotel’s interior is an opulent wonderland of sumptuous décor and fine art. Every room features limited edition prints, while a free art tour of the hotel is offered daily and a different artist is featured in the in-house gallery each month.

Doubles from $246 (£188). 325 South Orange Avenue; 00 1 407 313 9000

Budget Bolthole

Drury Inn & Suites, a consistent, cost-conscious national chain, is a relative newcomer to Florida but still delivers value for money with a flourish, including half-board value at room-only prices. The front desk is manned 24 hours a day and there is also a ticket desk for Universal Orlando and dinner shows, as well as a complimentary shuttle service. The main leisure feature is the heated indoor/outdoor pool with a whirlpool tub.

Doubles from $110 (£84). 7301 West Sand Lake Road; 00 1 407 354 1101

• A complete guide to the best hotels in Orlando

Visit family-owned Winter Park Honey (426 W. Plant Street; 00 1 855 974 6639) for more than 30 varieties of unfiltered pure Florida honey. Orange Blossom Honey’s delicate citrus flavour makes it a locals’ favourite in tea or on toast.

Rifle Paper Co. (558 W. New England Ave; 00 1 407 622 7679), in Winter Park’s chic Hannibal Square, carries unique arts and crafts by ‘guardian of style’ designer Garance Doré and celebrity lifestyle blogger Joanna Goddard, among others.

Yes, it’s the Sunshine State, and yes, you’re going to get plenty of sun, no matter what time of year you go. But this is also the sub-tropics, and it gets hot in the summer months (May to October) – often 30 degrees Celsius and over. From June to September, the humidity also kicks in, making it seriously sweaty to be outdoors for extended periods, while summer is thunderstorm season, with regular heavy bursts of thunder and lightning (albeit they rarely last more than an hour). Winter can occasionally get close to freezing at night. March-May and late September-early December are the optimum times to visit.

Essential information

British Consulate-General: The nearest Consular office is in Miami (00 1 305 400 6400).

Visit Orlando Tourist Board: The Official Visitor Center – and there is only one, despite various ticket offices proclaiming themselves as ‘official’ – is at 8102 International Drive (00 1 407 363 5872; visitorlando.com).

Emergency services: Dial 911

Local road traffic accident/emergency evacuation information: Dial 511 or visit fl511.com.

Directory inquiries: Dial 411 or visit 411.myflorida.com.

The basics

Currency: US dollar

Telephone code: Orlando numbers are usually area code 407, but a few can be 321.  Calling from the UK, dial 001 then 407 or 321 followed by the seven-digit number. Within Orlando, just dial the three-digit area code followed by the seven-digit number

Time difference: -5 hours

Flight time: London to Orlando is approximately 9.5 hours, the return leg is usually 8.5 hours.

Local laws and etiquette

• Always carry your passport and driver’s license with you when driving in America, in case you get stopped by police.

• You can turn right at a red traffic light (provided you come to a complete stop first, there is no oncoming traffic and no contradictory sign saying “no turn on red”).

• As in most American cities, you must park in the direction of the traffic on the correct side of the road, otherwise you will be fined. And do not park on raised kerbs.

• Also, avoid parking within 15ft of a fire hydrant. In Florida you must also slow down or pull into an outside lane when passing a police car stopped on the hard shoulder.

Author Bio

Simon and Susan were initially drawn to Orlando from Sussex and Michigan respectively by its dazzling theme parks and attractions, only to discover that a real living, breathing city exists just beyond Tourist Central. For 25 years, they’ve written the best-selling Brit Guide to Orlando.

Telegraph Travel’s best hotels, tours, cruises and holidays in Orlando, tried, tested and recommended by our Orlando experts.