More insider guides for planning a trip to Dublin
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Dublin’s dynamic, diverse nightlife doesn’t disappoint, whether you’re after a velvety pint of Guinness in an old-time boozer, the sweet, historic pong of cigarettes still lingering in the ancient wallpaper – or live Irish music in a candlelit café. Craft beer joints and trendy microbreweries are on the rise, and the most discerning visitors should be contented by the prospect of martinis in an Art Deco members’ bar. Here is destination expert, Neil Hegarty’s guide to the city’s most exciting pubs and bars.
Pubs
Dublin City
The Long Hall
This lavishly mirrored pub sees more locals and fewer tourists passing through. It’s set in a fine Victorian building with red-and-white-striped awnings, and the period theme continues inside, with a ceiling of oak, splendid cornicing, globe lamps and deep red walls. The Long Hall is perfect for a quiet afternoon pint of Guinness. By early evening, it fills up, so if you have a seat (and the best ones are just inside the door to the right, between the bar and the windows) then hold on to it.
Contact: 00 353 1 475 1590
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 12pm-11.30pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm-12.30am; Sun, 12.30pm-11.30pm
Price: £
Neary’s
Perhaps the most agreeable of Dublin’s old-time boozers, a step away from the shopping frenzy of Grafton Street. It’s perfect for a low-key drink on a Saturday afternoon or on a mid-week evening. Outside there’s a touch of late-Victorian exuberance in the form of two outstretched cast-iron arms holding aloft a pair of lanterns. Within, it’s more understated, with classic wooden fixtures. The main bar is nicely sociable, though it can fill up within five minutes once shows end at the nearby Gaiety Theatre. The snug is even more dedicated to quiet conversation.
Contact: 00 353 1 677 8596; nearys.ie
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 10.30am-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 10.30am-12.30am; Sun, 12.30pm-11pm
Price: £
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The Stag’s Head
The Stag’s Head has catered to generations of Dubliners, drawn here by its Victorian décor, wood panelling, stained-glass windows – and an actual stag’s head suspended above the mahogany-and-walnut bar, and rendered too in mosaic on the floor. In recent years it has become something of a tourist magnet, as well as a haunt for students from nearby Trinity College. But don’t let that put you off: this remains the real thing, and the atmosphere is as good as it ever was. The cosy nook buried in the back is ideal for a quiet afternoon drink.
Contact: 00 353 1 679 3687; louisfitzgerald.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 11am-12.30pm; Fri-Sat, 11am-1.30am; Sun, 12pm-midnight
Price: £
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Mulligan’s
A Dublin fixture since 1782 (it was a ‘shebeen’ or illegal drinking den before that), and has been cherished by successive generations of drinkers. This slightly gritty corner of town was once the haunt of dockers and sailors in need of a stiff drink – and today, it retains the air of a world apart. Think tongue-and-groove walls, dark cornicing, intimate corners and a profusion of mahogany. True authenticity: no television, and an excellent spot for good stout and mellow conversation. For all these reasons, Mulligan’s fills up once the offices close: arrive early and grab your corner.
Contact: 00 353 1 677 5582; mulligans.ie
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 10.30am-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 10.30am-12.30am; Sun, 12.30pm-11pm
Price: £
The Cobblestone
The venue anchors the north end of Smithfield, a long rectangular public space that once played host to the city’s horse market. Changes come and changes go, but The Cobblestone remains apparently impervious to all. This old pub – ramshackle on the outside; all dim lighting, photograph-laden red walls and polished wooden fittings within – is still home to a dedicated Irish traditional music scene. Sessions kick off every evening, and on a wet Dublin night, this place is a true refuge. Music in the front bar is free; sessions in the back bar occasionally incur a charge.
Contact: 00 353 1 872 1799; cobblestonepub.ie
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 4pm-11.30pm; Fri, 4pm-12.30am; Sat, 1.30pm-12.30am; Sun, 1.30pm-11pm
Price: £
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The Porterhouse
Ranging over four floors on the western edge of Temple Bar, this pub began flying the microbrewery flag over 10 years ago, and today it’s still going strong. Come here for a range of excellent in-house Irish brews: from dark, velvety porters (try the Oyster Stout made, yes, with fresh oysters) to red ales (try the fruity Porterhouse Red). This place can be touristy and very packed: but still, well worth a visit. The décor? Lots and lots of wood, but lots of windows too overlooking Parliament Street, and vast ranks of bottles gleaming on the walls.
Contact: 00 353 1 679 8847; theporterhouse.ie
Opening times: Mon-Wed, 11.30am-midnight; Thu, 11.30am-1am; Fri, Sat, 11.30am-2am; Sun, 12pm-midnight
Price: £
Credit:
PORTERHOUSE
The Black Sheep
With a couple of dozen craft beers on tap and dozens more available in bottled form, The Black Sheep is a real craft-beer haven. It’s squirrelled away at the north end of Capel Street, but worth going a little out of your way for. Admire the simplicity of the place: the large windows, light-filled interior and plain wooden furniture, and the bottles that gleam and cluster all around the bar. And what a choice, with global brews and an excellent selection of local labels too; try Galway’s Stormy Port stout, or the Goodbye Blue Monday oatmeal IPA. Food is available all day.
Contact: 00 353 1 873 0013; galwaybaybrewery.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu: 12pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-12.30am; Sun: 12.30pm-11pm
Price: £
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Against the Grain
Craft-beer heaven: owned by Galway Bay Brewery, Against the Grain has carved out its own distinctive niche, with hundreds of beers on offer from around the world. The interior is distinctive too: none of your dark, polished wood here, with the bar opting instead for airiness, pale walls and bright globe lamps, and a blackboard featuring various beery permutations on the wall. Go for the Irish brews, now that you’re here: a Knockmealdown stout, perhaps, or an Althea Session IPA. There’s a full food menu: try the spiced beanburger (€12/£11).
Contact: 00 353 1 470 5100; galwaybaybrewery.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu: 12pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-12.30am; Sun: 12.30pm-11pm
Price: £
Bars
Dublin City
The Horseshoe Bar
Don’t sweep in looking for cheap booze – it’s hotel prices here, and swish hotel prices at that – but instead to cast your eye around a central nexus of political power in Ireland. This sweet, diminutive bar, buried deep in the innards of The Shelbourne Hotel and just around the corner from the Irish Parliament, has attracted the networked and powerful for decades. And, given its glossy fittings, gleaming mirrors, peerless service, rich red walls and luxurious environment, despite the prices you might find yourself opting for that second drink (the Guinness is de rigueur).
Contact:00 353 1 663 4500; theshelbourne.ie
Opening times: Tue-Wed, 3pm-11.30pm; Thu, 3pm-12.30am; Fri, 12pm-1.30am; Sat, noon-1.30am; 11pm-11pm
Price: £££
Getting in: Open-door policy
Credit:
SHELBOURNE HOTEL
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9 Below
Newly opened in the vaulted stone basement of a smart private members’ club on St Stephen’s Green, 9 Below offers sky-high service and notes of luxury throughout. Think Art Deco accents, subdued lighting, brass and walnut finishes, personal attention and table service, cocktails shaken with an expert touch, and a proliferation of quiet corners and alcoves. Come prepared to part with your cash: you won’t find a bottle of wine under €50 (£44) – but if it’s luxury you’re after, you’ll find it here. No food – though you can order in sushi if peckish.
Contact: 00 353 1 905 9990; 9below.ie
Opening times: Tue-Thu, 5pm-11.30pm; Fri-Sat, 5pm-12.30am
Price: £££
Getting in: Reservations only
The Octagon Bar
A very fashionable joint – not really a shock, given the fact that it’s the main bar of the U2-owned hotel, The Clarence, on the city’s South Quays. The bar does indeed occupy a fine, domed octagonal space, with associated snug and lounge, terrazzo flooring and Art Deco windows. The brass-gleaming bar is itself octagonal in shape, and is surrounded by comfortable, recessed seating areas. The main event is an extensive cocktail menu (try a gin-soused Bramble, tangy with lemon and laced with raspberries) but the usual run of beers and wine is also available, and people watching is the speciality of the maison.
Contact: 00 353 1 407 0800; theclarence.ie
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 12pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-2am; Sun, 12pm-11.30pm
Price: ££
Getting in: Open-door policy
The Market Bar
The large, high-ceilinged Market Bar opens up at the side of the fairytale-Victorian George’s Street shopping arcade. If you come here relatively early, this can be a good place for a sit-down with the kids: it’s child-friendly, with no tutting in the background, and you can kick back with a coffee, glass of wine and decent tapas. Later, the place fills up, so prepare for lots of noise and crowds. Tables in the cocktail gallery upstairs are terrific for beady people-watching – and yes, the cocktails are excellent. Go for an amontillado-spiked Victoria, complete with perky pink grapefruit.
Contact: 00 353 1 613 9094; marketbar.ie
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 12pm-11:30pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-1.30am; Sun, 12pm-11pm
Price: ££
Getting in: Open-door policy
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La Cave
Gasping for a late-night drink? Fear not – follow in the footsteps of a generation of similarly deprived Dubliners. La Cave has become something of a much-frequented city institution, offering copious lists of vintages and serving until 2am. It’s a subterranean refuge from the world: steep rickety stairs descend into a red-walled little room, plush and dim, glinting with bottles and polished glasses. There is a fine selection of wines by the glass, with Austrian, Hungarian, Lebanese and Greek numbers jostling for position with your Chilean reds and a galaxy of French labels. Good food too.
Contact: 00 353 1 679 4409; lacavewinebar.com
Opening times: Mon-Sat, 12pm-2am; Sun, 5pm-2am
Price: ££
Getting in: Reservations recommended
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57 The Headline
A little off the usual tourist beat, but it’s worth strolling along the South Circular to Leonard’s Corner to find this excellent local place. Máire Ní Mhaolie and Geoff Carty really have turned it into a destination bar in its own right in this part of town, with punters rolling in for craft beers – try the Rebel Red ale or Five Lamps lager – and regular whiskey and cocktail specials. Don’t miss the ever-growing artisan gin menu, a speciality of the house. No music, no television, but lots of newspapers, lots of space and an excellent dinner menu.
Contact: 00 353 1 532 0279; 57theheadline.ie
Opening times: Mon, 4pm-11.30pm; Tue-Fri, 3pm-11.30pm; Sat, 1pm-12.30am; Sun, 1pm-11pm
Price: £
Getting in: Open-door policy
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Bagots Hutton
There’s a café space, all comfy leather seats and tweed Chesterfield sofas, and it’s open all day for light bites and wine. Later, the candles are lit in the darker dining space at the rear; while downstairs you’ll find a fantastic wine bar. The original winning ingredients remain intact: wonderful cocktail and European wine lists; great pizza, fresh pasta, and charcuterie and cheese sharing plates (€15-€25/£13-£22); elegant desserts; live music kicking off in the evenings – and art everywhere. Note the lengthened opening hours – drop in for a morning coffee and view over Dublin’s busy quays.
Contact:00 353 83 188 7782; bagotshutton.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 7am-11pm; Fri, 7am-1.30am; Sat, 10am-1.30am; Sun, 12pm-6pm
Price: ££
Getting in: Open-door policy
Coastal Dublin
The Bloody Stream
Avert your eyes from the fearsome name, which refers to the stream flowing underneath the premises, and which ran with blood in the aftermath of a medieval battle. Thankfully, nowadays it’s a cheerful, hanging basket-festooned harbourside bar – and it’s just the ticket after a walk and some fresh seaside air, so drop by for a cool sauvignon blanc and a sit-down on the very attractive and roomy outdoor terrace. Inside, think flagstones on the floor, stone walls and lots of polished wood. Food is served all day, with seafood a speciality.
Contact: 00 353 1 839 5076; bloodystream.ie
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 12pm-11.30pm; Fri-Sat, 12pm-2.30am; Sun, 12pm-1.30am
Price: £
Getting in: Open-door policy
Credit:
THE BLOODY STREAM
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The Purty Kitchen
This option a short stroll from Dún Laoghaire harbour combines cosy pub (with original mahogany fittings) smart gastrobar and live music venue – and it’s a perfect destination after a seaside walk in the area. Music takes place upstairs in the Loft: note there’s generally an admission charge, which varies – check the website for details. The food is award-winning quality (lots of fishy choices; try the Purty fish pie, €11.50/£10), and there’s a BYO wine policy (Mon-Thu only). Try a artisanal Dingle gin and tonic (€6.80/£6) from the smart spirits menu.
Contact: 00 353 1 284 3576; purtykitchen.com
Opening times: Mon-Thu, 12.30pm-11.30pm; Fri, Sat, 12pm-12.30am; Sun, 12pm-midnight
Price: ££
Getting in: Reservations recommended
Credit:
THE PURTY KITCHEN