Croatian Wine Dream Comes True Without Leaving One’s Homeland

A tiny five-year-old boy with cheeks, wet from the tears he previously shed, sits on his father’s lap on a tractor that is driven up and down their family’s vineyards. Early in life this boy only wanted to be close to his father, becoming his shadow, following him whenever he could; then one day this boy fell in love with the vines on his family’s land, especially the unique, native red variety Teran. The idea of becoming a full-time wine producer seemed impossible for this child as his father had to work another job and his family only sold their seven and ½ acres of grapes for a small amount of money to other producers. But sometimes the impossible becomes reality as today that little boy has become one of the rising star wine producers in Croatia.

Marko Fakin was that tiny boy who founded Fakin Winery in 2010 by making wine from his family vineyards in his homeland of Istria which is in the northwestern peninsula of Croatia. His area borders Slovenia and it is not that far away from the northern Italian city of Trieste. Istria is not only famous for its truffles but also as the birthplace of the legendary race car driver Mario Andretti, whose family fled to a refugee camp in Italy in the late 1940s and then made their way to the U.S.. Many other wine regions in Croatia may be internationally known for their native white grape called Pošip and their native reds Plavac Mali and Crljenak Kaštelanski (ancient clone of Zinfandel) but Istria is known for its own clone of the white grape variety of Malvasia (called Malvazija Istarska in Istria) and the native red grape Teran – the one that captured Marko’s heart at such a young age.

Like Italy, Croatia has always had a long winemaking tradition, where many past generations of family members would make their own house wine from their own grapes, but there has been a lot of turmoil and lack of opportunity in Croatia and so those with the means and ambition would have to leave everything behind to have a better life in another country – but that may not always be the case in the future.

Croatian Wines

Mike Grgich, who has carved out an important place for himself in Napa Valley wine history was born and raised in the Croatian coastal region of Dalmatia and escaped the then communist Yugoslavia to fulfill the dream of becoming a winemaker in paradise – California. Today the coastal area of Dalmatia with its multitude of Croatian islands off its coast is considered paradise with its enticing Mediterranean climate, natural beauty that includes stunning waterfalls and a great view of the turquoise blue tinted Adriatic Sea. One of the most popular islands is Hvar which has a winery on it called Zlatan Otok that translates to ‘Sunny Island’ and is the sunniest of all the islands. Not only is Hvar a fantasy island for the fashionable and wealthy but it also has one of the oldest continually cultivated vineyards where vines have grown since 400 BCE.

It was a full circle moment to hear Davor Šestanović, winemaker at Zlatan Otok, talk about bringing back knowledge and experience he gained while interning at California wineries Ridge Vineyard and Lytton Springs to help make premium wines made from their Plavac Mali and Crljenak Kaštelanski (Zinfandel) red varieties, when it comes to thinking of Mike Grgich’s journey. When Grgich first came to California to pursue a winemaking career in the late 1950s, he thought the Zinfandel grape resembled his beloved Plavac Mali back home. Later on he found out that the two grapes have a connection as Plavac Mali is a cross between the Croatian native varieties Crljenak Kaštelanski and Dobričić and that Crljenak Kaštelanski was an ancient clone of Zinfandel. Research showed that Zinfandel traveled from Croatia to Puglia, Italy and from there made its way to California. Seeing that grape made Grgich feel more at home in California as there were many things he missed about his homeland but due to the repressive regime that ruled during that time he had no choice but to leave. But now Davor was going to California so he could come back to the beautiful Adriatic Sea he loved so much to make premium wine so he could be part of showing the world the high potential of Croatian wines.

Davor has improved techniques in the winery at Zlatan Otok to help preserve the glory of the Mediterranean sun kissed grapes that are grown in his limestone dominated soils on steep slopes at elevations around 1,000 feet where everything in the vineyards has to be done by hand. 

Serious Intention Behind Serious Wines

Some countries languish in wine obscurity but it is not always because they do not have the potential to make serious wines; sometimes there is no intention to make it and many times that lack of intention has to do with having limited resources as many are just struggling to survive. But as Croatia grows in popularity as a country that not only people want to visit but as a place where people want to buy products, there are more resources being placed into improving their wine production and even seeking out new wine growing areas that would make quality wine.

The area of Komarna is a new wine appellation that was officially recognized in 2013 that is located in southern Dalmatia along the coastline. Only seven wineries currently exist there but the intention is to push the boundaries of quality such as with a popular white grape variety called Pošip that was, in the past, only made as an easy drinking fresh white wine, which it still mainly exists in that style today. But wine producers such as Terra Madre in the Komarna area are making richer, more complex Pošip white wines as Terra Madre’s winemaker, Marko Šuman, expressed that it is a “unique grape from Dalmatia” that has always had a potential to become a “serious wine” but it was just a matter of getting the resources and building the market demand so they could spend the time and money to experiment with it.

The seven wineries on Komarna help each other out in their commitment to making quality wine and they have even made a collaborative wine called Komarna 7: a Plavac Mali red wine that is a blend of lots picked from the seven wineries. Assistant winemaker for Terra Madre, Gorana Dominiković, explained that it was meant to be a “perfect blend” that represented the typicity of the Plavac Mali red grape from Komarna.

All of the aforementioned Croatian wineries have received international recognition by winning awards at the Decanter World Wine Awards in the past, with Fakin being the only Croatian winery to receive the Decanter gold four years in a row; two years for their Malvasia white wine and two years for their Teran red wine.

A Homeland with a Future

In 2010, the first Teran red wine vintage Marko Fakin made won a Croatian national competition as well as recognizing him as Winemaker of Year and so he was able to eventually grow his business from 2,000 bottles to the current 120,000 bottle production with a total of 82 vineyards in his town of Motovun in Istria, Croatia. Malvasia (Malvazija Istarska) and Teran are the two grape variety stars of the Istria area with Malvasia being one of the most popular wines in Croatia as a whole and the number one grape planted in Istria where they celebrate the grape by having the World of Malvasia event, bringing in Malvasia wines from all over the globe, every year. Yet Marko brings attention to the special quality of Malvasia from Motovun as it is an area with a mix of a “Mediterranean climate” that is affected by the Mirna River that encircles the town bringing a “continental” influence. And so there is a significant difference between the daytime and nighttime temperatures that allows complexity of aromas in the grapes to develop as “everyday the grape bunches get a shock”.

But Marko Fakin is known for taking on the arduous task of waving the flag for Teran and he has done it quite successfully. He calls Teran a “wild grape” and it is a variety that is “really difficult” to make into good wine but once one learns how to work with the grape “it is the best in the world”. It is a red grape that gives lots of acidity even during warm vintages as well as lots of color and can have a range of flavors such as wild berries, forest floor and savory herbs. Istria is rivaling Alba, Piedmont for their famous truffles and Marko exclaimed that the strong intoxicating aromas of the Istria truffles is the ideal pairing for Teran.

Over the past decade, Marko has seen a growth in tourism, especially from the U.S., in his ancient town of Motovun where his family has been since the 17^th century. It has become a haven for those that love truffle hunting, good food and good wine in a place that still has lots of nature with a deep history that goes back to the 8^th century. Growing up he could never imagine that people from all over the world would come to his home of Motovun but today his business thrives on the people from far-flung places who visit his restaurant and winery and he is inspired daily to improve every little aspect of his wine. Marko is incorporating organic and biodynamic principals as well as planning a bigger winery that will have an expansive tasting room that will be able to accommodate more visitors.

As Marko sat in the middle of the vineyard he recently purchased on the top of the Motovun hill, where he will in a few years make his ‘Super Istrian’ wine which is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Teran, he talked about how winemaking is a job only for the very passionate as there are easier ways to make a living. Marko and his family work everyday to keep this dream alive and there is no such thing as a day off. But then, as the sun started to set casting a golden glow over the medieval Motovun town in the background with the wind picking up, forcing Marko to tighten his jacket, he looked around and said, “It is hard work but at least I don’t have to move from my village.”

Then Marko described how he and his friends used to run around that same vineyard as children, and one by one, they have all left to find a better life in another country… but today he owns this vineyard and he is making wine that is being internationally praised. He is part of the first generation who is building a foundation for the future that involves showing the world the best of Croatia. And one day, he will not have to tell his kids that their dreams will come true in Italy, or in the U.S., but that their dreams will come true in their homeland of Croatia… just like the dream their father lived.   

Fakin Wines

2019 Fakin Winery, Malvazija, Istria, Croatia: 100% Malvasia (Malvasia Istarska). A white wine that first entices the nose with aromas of honey and white flowers with zesty lemon zest on the palate and a mouthwatering acidity balanced by a touch of richness of fleshy peach flavors.

2019 Fakin Winery, Teran, Istria, Croatia: 100% Teran. A beautiful violet aromatic nose on this exotic red wine that had brambly berries with a touch of sweet tobacco and dried thyme that was flavorful yet bright on the palate with slight structure of tannins and notes of forest floor, sweet tobacco and fresh thyme on the long, expressive finish.

Zlatan Otok Wines

2019 Zlatan Otok Winery, Pošip, Island of Hvar, Croatia: 100% Pošip. Pošip is a native white grape that originates from the island of Korćula. This grape variety can produce a light and refreshing wine or a richer, more textured version; Zlatan Otok makes a richer version as not only does it get deliciously ripe with intense apricot flavors but it is multi-textural with aging on the fine lees and balances that richness with lemon confit and saline notes on the finish.

2015 Zlatan Otok Winery, Plavac, Island of Hvar, Croatia: 100% Plavac Mali. Plavac Mali is a cross between Crljenak Kaštelanski (ancient Zinfandel) and Dobričić, grown in Southern and Central Dalmatia in Croatia. According to Davor, it can be more like a fruit-forward Pinot Noir from cooler areas or from the warmer area of the island of Hvar it can be more savory such as this Zlatan Otok Plavac Mali; Mediterranean herbs with broken earth with brooding black fruit underneath and a spicy finish. 

2013 Zlatan Otok Winery, Crljenak Kaštelanski, Island of Hvar, Croatia: 100% Crljenak Kaštelanski. Crljenak Kaštelanski is an ancient clone of Zinfandel that is found in Croatia and this 2013 has an incredibly velvety texture with supple multi-dimensional fruit such as ripe blueberries, raspberry coulis and blackcurrant compote with plenty of exuberance still existing from its youth in the form of pretty lilac aromas and overall freshness; all this balanced by a complex scorched earth note that wafted in and out.

Terra Madre Wines

Terra Madre means “Mother Earth”

2019 Terra Madre Winery, Rosé, Komarna area in Dalmatia region, Croatia: 85% Plavac Mali and 15% Syrah. A pretty rosé with fresh strawberry flavors, spice box, white pepper and a cranberry zing. 

2018 Terra Madre Winery, Pošip (Native White Variety of Croatia), Komarna area in Dalmatia region, Croatia: 85% Pošip and 15% Chardonnay. Lemon curd with hints of a saline minerality that had a little bit of a creamy texture with lots of brightness on the finish. 

2016 Terra Madre, Premium Plavac Mali, Komarna area in Dalmatia region, Croatia: 85% Plavac Mali, 10% Syrah and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Intense fruit flavors with mulberry, blueberry compote and dried red currants; multi-layered with dried and fresh fruit flavors, cinnamon and tobacco with a round texture and bright acidity on the finish. 

2016 Komarna 7, Plavac Mali, Komarna area in Dalmatia region, Croatia: 100% Plavac Mali. Komarna 7 represents a collaborative effort of the seven wineries choosing the ideal lots that represent the typicity of Plavac Mali from the Komarna appellation. Juicy blackberry flavors with earth and dried herbs that had slightly structured tannins yet plenty of plush fruit to finish with a lovely balance.