It’s no wonder that the Maldives often overwhelm would-be visitors. Its 1,192 coral islands, set within 26 atolls, spread across 35,000 square miles of Indian Ocean, are enough to send most people into a pre-hols spin.
At the first glance of a silky brochure, Maldivian islands appear to be just carbon copies of each other; comprised of soft sand beaches, teeming house reefs and lofty coconut palms. But when you look a little closer, and search for detail beneath the gloss, you’ll realise that this island nation is more varied, complex and vibrant than first impressions often suggest.
Why the Maldives?
At no sandy point across its more than 1,000 islands does the lowest country in the world rise (naturally) above six feet. Up against its Indian Ocean neighbours – Seychelles and Mauritius – the Maldives resembles a pancake next to a pair of Victoria sponges. You don’t go here to ponder (or hike over) topographical texture, but to gawp at ocean-filled horizons where sandbars emerge and submerge at the whim of the warm currents.
Maldivian islands are, compared to most of the Caribbean, for example – tiny. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a stretch of beach to run along for more than a few hundred feet, however an abundance of them results in privacy and isolation seldom achieved elsewhere on the planet. It’s no wonder that the Maldives have become so popular with honeymooners desperate for seclusion – this is a mostly fly and flop, as opposed to hike and bike, destination.
That said, even the larger resorts are arranged in such a way that they allow for outward, ocean-facing views – and not of a central swimming pool or restaurant. Moreover, calm and sheltered lagoons allow for most islands to extend their footprint with boardwalks out to sea, in the same way you see in French Polynesia. Take the 120-room Amari Havodda, as a prime example – beach and overwater villas have sunrise or sunset vistas, depending on guests’ preference. Even at the busier islands you can enjoy entirely private views.
Finally, Maldivians pride themselves on their world-renowned service and it’s not uncommon to hear a sly jibe towards the (sometimes more… relaxed) Seychellois. JOALI, in the Raa Atoll, receives rave reviews for the standard of staff attentiveness, but it’s almost certain that you’ll find this everywhere you stay.
Where to stay?
It’s important to remember that, unlike many of its Indian Ocean rivals, almost every Maldivian ‘hotel’ occupies its very own island. The government sells leases to hotel developers for a number of decades and a resort emerges from the virgin sand. Currently there are over 150 to choose from, with a handful more opening every year – it’s no wonder tourists are often left perplexed by the variety on offer.
But ultimately, one’s preference will boil down to; how much are you looking to spend? And how far are you willing to travel after a long-haul flight? If the answer is not a lot, then you could be in your hotel room within an hour of touching down – on a good day. Jumeirah Vittaveli, for example, is a 20-minute speedboat ride from the international airport’s jetty. Velassaru is just 25-minutes away, and Kurumba is a mere 10. Proximity to the runway, however, might detract from that feeling of utter island isolation, if you can watch (and hear) your plane depart as you tuck into that first holiday cocktail. For more suggestions of the best hotels in the Maldives, see our guide.
Generally speaking, the further you venture from the capital, the more expensive things become. You’ll also have to factor in seaplane transfers (if they’re not already included in the price of your stay) and be prepared to hang around in a departure lounge if inclement weather strikes. Furthermore, sometimes seaplanes visit a number of resorts between Malé and your island, so be ready for a bit of impromptu island hopscotch – which, if you’re not a jetlagged mess, is an unforgettable adventure in its own right.
Which atoll?
Only a pedantic botanist could identify the minute aesthetic differences between each atoll. But for the average holidaymaker – looking to find that classic paradise scene – bounty island perfection can be discovered all over the Maldives. The main thing to consider, though, is what’s going on around that island (and when)? And how many people are you prepared to share it with?
Baa Atoll, for example, is home to the 26-villa Nautilus. Just 30 minutes from Malé via seaplane, this Unesco Biosphere Reserve boasts the largest manta ray aggregation in the world – and from June to November zooplankton is funnelled into the atoll, attracting hundreds of these graceful giants.
The South Ari Atoll, meanwhile, is generally considered the best place to snorkel with whale sharks; year-round residents in the Maldives. They tend to favour the west side of the Indian Ocean between May and December, before heading east around April. The 39-villa, couples-focussed Mirihi Island Resort is one of the best places to be based for such encounters.
When to visit?
Generally speaking, the best time to visit the Maldives is between November and April, when there’s less chance of rain and the wind drops. The heat and humidity rises significantly during the Northern Hemisphere summer months (the Southwest Monsoon) but don’t forget that this is a greatly dispersed island nation – stretching just over 500 miles from north to south, and 80 miles from east to west. Each atoll in the Maldives can be experiencing a slightly different weather system at any given time, regardless of month.
Sometimes it’s a case of potluck – and it’s important to savour the rainy days in paradise when they come along. September and October are, however, often the wettest months – but these are the tropics, and you can get meteorological anomalies at any time of year. Visiting out of season could be a masterstroke, however, and save brave travellers a lot of money. Hoteliers in the Maldives are generally united in the fact that their seasons are much less predictable these days, so maybe consider the shoulder seasons for a bargain.