Out of more than 12,000 Indian restaurants and curry houses in the UK, only eight have a Michelin star.
A small and surprising number, I’d say, considering 194 UK restaurants earned at least one star in this year’s official Guide and Indian cuisine is one of Britain’s all-time favorites.
Over the years, the prestigious stars have even eluded restaurants run by celebrated Indian chefs like Vineet Bhatia and Manish Mehrotra.
And then, of course, there’s hidden star-less gems like Kahani, the contemporary Indian restaurant off of London’s Sloane Square.
After maintaining a Michelin star as head chef at Tamarind, chef and owner Peter Joseph left to open the restaurant exactly four years ago. But it wasn’t easy. With sights set on stars of his own, the Covid-19 pandemic stopped everything in its tracks.
“This period was my biggest challenge,” says Joseph. “As like everyone around the world, the pandemic had a huge impact on the hospitality industry, but I learned to be calm in these situations and keep doing what’s possible in that climate.”
Every dish at the restaurant is a rmieagination of classic Indian dishes
Though it wasn’t part of the plan, Kahani successfully pivoted to offer high-end takeaway and delivery, as well as home dining experiences hosted by Joseph himself.
“We also offered Kahani teaching at home where smaller groups of people could learn from myself to create a three-course meal, which they enjoyed at the end of the cookery class,” he says. “All of these helped keep us afloat, and finally today we have survived through the pandemic and we’re doing amazingly well.”
A sentiment which is best evidenced via Kahani’s brand-new sharing menu.
Using the finest British ingredients, chef Joseph’s new menu showcases a wide range of deliciously light Indian dishes, mostly offered as small plates, ranging from soft-shell crab (served with chettinnad spices, kachumber and yellow tomato chutney) to a classic pani puri (filled with spiced sweet potato and chickpeas).
“I have experimented with a few new ingredient combinations which excites me, like Indian red pumpkin with coconut yogurt, sirloin with fresh herbs, and morel mushroom biryani,” says Joseph.
Chef and owner Peter Joseph preparing dishes at Kahani
“There are a few new dishes that I absolutely love, but if I had to say one it would be the monkfish chargrilled with Gujarati’s green chutney, crab and barley kichadi.
“I really love the combination of crab and barley kedgeree with Tandoori grilled monkfish—it’s so fresh.”
Those who love their Indian chargrilled meats won’t be disappointed either, with the menu now including a sirloin kebab with fresh coriander and curry leaf chutney, lightly spiced with calamansi and royal cumin.
One of Kahani’s many incredible cocktails
The new menu continues to feature the restaurant’s much-loved bottomless brunch offering too, enticing new customers in to enjoy three luxury courses with bottomless bubbles.
A savvy move, where eventual stars are concerned.
“The pressure was on me at Tamarind, but since opening Kahani my main aim is to satisfy each and every guest who enters. We make sure that every guest has a memorable and fantastic dining experience, with a warm welcome, attentive service, and that they enjoy their meal with an abundance of flavours,” says Joseph.
“This way, down the line in a year or two, the glittering Michelin Star stone will be added to our crown.”
While set menus are available, sharing a variety of dishes is encouraged