Maison Assouline: From Luxury Books To World’s Best Bars

Food & Drink

Nearly 40 years since its founding, Assouline has grown to become the premiere name in luxury lifestyle book publishing. Today you will find nearly 2,000 titles bearing its imprint, running a range of topics from fashion and photography to travel and mixology. On that last subject, the brand eventually decided that it wasn’t enough to simply offer words. And so ultimately a bridge between book and bottle was built. Enter: Swans Bar.

It came to life in 2014 within Maison Assouline—the brand’s stately showroom on Piccadilly in the heart of London. But initially the drinks here were more of an afterthought; something refreshing to enhance the unique retail experience of the space. Only more recently have the cocktails been elevated and reimagined as centerpieces in their own right.

For that, we can thank Alex Assouline. The second generation steward of the family brand acts as its chief of operations for brand and strategy. Splitting his time between New York, London, and his native Paris, the savvy executive is acutely aware of just how transportive a proper drinks program can be. So he committed to bringing Swans to the level of World’s 50 Best and plucked the talent and inspiration necessary to get there. Namely, that meant the arrival of Gabor Onufer who had spent the past 6 years developing the award-winning bar at Claridge’s in neighboring Mayfair.

A bookstore—even a singularly upscale example such as Maison Assouline—isn’t exactly the most conventional setting for sipping spirits. Nevertheless, Onufer views this circumstance as inspiration rather than circumstance. Working closely with Alex, the duo are already making a splash upon the scene. Which is no small feat in a city widely regarded as the Cocktail Capital of the World. Both men sat down with Forbes to share their recipe for success. Read on below…

People know Assouline as one of the world’s foremost book publishers, what brought you into the beverage space?

Alex Assouline: “The idea was to develop an oasis of culture through books, but also to curate objects and furniture from various eras or regions, all with a point of view, and from what we—the family—like and what inspires us. That also included a hospitality component. The upscale Swans bar, which we are really proud of, serves what we like to drink and light bites we love. It is the chicest place on earth for us. And now with the recent addition of Gabor Onufer and his team, every aspect has been elevated even more and the cocktails are quite impressive.”

Talk to us about the beverage program at Maison Assouline. What defines it? Is there a unifying theme?

Gabor Onufer: “Our beverage program is heavily influenced by the harmony between our unique location and the Assouline ethos. As soon as you enter Swans Bar from the hustle and bustle of Piccadilly, you’re welcomed by a relaxed, comforting ambiance and vast open spaces filled with books, art, and curiosities. We aim to capture that shift in atmosphere by encouraging everyone to take a break and celebrate the moment at Swans Bar. To achieve that, the drinks we serve are effortless, bright, and pleasurable both on the palate and in execution. They are interesting and elegant, but never convoluted or gimmicky. We also place a huge emphasis on our backbar, where you can find Japanese whiskey aged in Martinique rum casks or tequilas and Scotch finished in French prime red wine barrels. Just like the Assouline family – who are passionate collectors – Swans Bar also collects the finest things in life, but in liquid form.”

What inspires you in terms of art, design, cocktail programs that have helped inform the space?

AA: “The Swans Bar name and atmosphere comes from a book we published a few years earlier, called Swans: Legend of the Jet Society, featuring the famous entourage of Truman Capote, with images of the New York elite in the ‘50s. You can find these photos framed along the walls of the bar. It is a culture lounge with the right music curation, atmosphere, and the perfect place to unplug in the bustling Piccadilly.”

How did the relationship with Gabor develop?

AA: “James Duncan, the director of Maison Assouline, joined the company during the pandemic and was here to take on the challenge of rebuilding the team, finding the right person to drive the bar and taking it to a new level. He has done an incredible job and developed the right team. Gabor Onufer was one of them, coming with a real passion and an approach to storytelling. He has structured the operations, worked with his team to create an astonishing cocktail list and experience. Sometimes when I visit London, I just sit at the bar and listen to him explain to clients each minor detail of the creations that they are about to intake, and it is electrifying.”

What are your favorite types of drinks to make?

GO: “The type of drink that will put a smile on our guests’ faces. Although we take great pride in our cocktail and spirit selection, we always follow a tailor-to-taste approach with every drink request we receive. This bespoke experience means we have loyal customers who know they can always find their favourite cocktail iteration at Swans Bar. At Swans Bar we offer two menus that are refreshed annually – a Travel Series menu with cocktails inspired by our bestselling travel books, and our regular menu, which features a carefully curated selection of cocktails alongside fine wines and spirits. We also enjoy developing limited-edition cocktails to celebrate cultural moments, which ensures there is always something new and innovative to discover at Swans Bar.”

What are some of your goals for the future of Maison?

AA: “Gabor and his team are working on a seasonal Travel Series cocktail list that changes twice a year, with fantastic creations. We are also looking to bring the hospitality experience to new heights. We will expand the Swans Bar to the mezzanine level starting March 2023 and we have now launched a private dining space on our top floor, which we also use for cultural events.”

GO: “Like a luxury library that prides itself on housing rare books, we also want Swans Bar to be a leading destination for fine and rare spirits. This part of our program is growing, and we are delighted to currently offer a selection of rare expressions from the Glenmorangie and Ardbeg distilleries. We plan to develop this into an unparalleled collection over the coming months, which is very exciting and a taste of things to come at Swans Bar.”

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