My trip to Morocco started with spending 10 hours in the terminal in Casablanca airport. I got bumped from my flight from Lisbon to Marrakesh and the ensuing wait was an exercise in patience and acceptance, an exercise I failed parlously.
But once I finally arrived in the medina and checked into my riad, El Fenn, I immediately forgot about all my trials. I mean, a tortoise greeted me, as did a lovely arrangement of tea and snacks to welcome a weary traveler.
Hospitality in Morocco is second to none, and staying in a riad is a must in any Moroccan city, so says our local contributor in Morocco, Sally Kirby. I recently spoke with Sally from her home in Tamraght to talk about all things Morocco: what it’s like traveling as a woman, what to wear, what to eat and where to stay.
Read on for an edited version of our conversation.
How did you end up in Morocco?
I came here for a week-long holiday every now and again to surf, and then I finally decided that if I wanted to improve, I needed to invest. It’s not going to happen one week every two years. It’s the perfect place to learn because there are lots of spots that are beginner-friendly and lots of surf schools. So that was how I came to Morocco. And then I trained as a yoga teacher.
Have you traveled around a lot?
Yes. During Covid they shut the borders and no one was allowed in or out. It was quite quiet with no tourism, so I was able to travel around the country easily. There was nobody around.
And how did you start writing about traveling?
Well, with Covid, everything was out of date. There was a need for someone to create some fresh content about what has changed and what has been built during shut-down. They did a lot of construction across the country, but particularly in Tamraght, the area I live in. And none of the information resources were up to date. So I started a blog, because I’ve always loved writing and sharing my travel experiences.
Then I applied to write Lonely Planet’s Morocco guidebook, and got the gig. I really felt that flow, that alignment with your purpose. This is all I need to focus on. The yoga was amazing. The surfing was amazing. But it’s my practice. It’s not my career, you know.
How did you like writing the book?
I realized that this is what I love to do: the research, the finding people, the sense of connection to different layers of the country. Every time I went out I met someone else who went to someone else. And I was like, wow, if I hadn’t left that day I would never have come across this incredible place. It pushed me as a personal challenge, but it has enabled me to stay. I now have a career that supports fulfilling my mind as well as my love of travel and connection.
Any guidance for women traveling to Morocco?
If you want to avoid unwanted attention, cover up. You can wear whatever you want underneath. Just put a jacket over it, or a cardigan, or layer with a scarf. If you do get whistled at, be really firm with your no. Having been here for five years, I either ignore it completely, or if it becomes too close, I say “Sir!” in Arabic, which is like, “go away,” and don’t make eye contact. Just be really firm with your no.
How is it getting around?
I would say all forms of transport are super easy. Like the bus: for the long route it’s more of a luxury coach that is air conditioned, and some of them have Wi-Fi on board. They link all the cities and smaller towns.
Then in the north trains will take you anywhere from Marrakesh upwards, to Casablanca, Rabbi, Tanjalia. They have a really good rail system: compared to the UK and US, it’s very affordable.
For longer journeys, for example, if you were going from Casablanca to the Sahara, you can fly there. A lot of locals do that because it saves so much time.
How is it to drive?
Easy. And the service stations? They’re amazing! You could spend a couple of hours at a petrol station with your kids playing in the play area, having a nice tajine, and taking a proper break from a long drive.
Do you recommend hiring a guide?
They will connect you deeper with the destination for sure. If you’re in somewhere like Fez, it’s huge. There’s so much to see. The souq is enormous. Sit down with a guide and say, “This is what I’m interested in,” and let them take on the planning of the route. I think it will save you money and time. And the passion that the local guides have in Morocco is incredible. They translate for you as well, not just to understand the language but the culture.
Do you have an example?
Yes, like bartering. You’ve got someone to show you how to do it. When I think back to when I first arrived, and I was trying to do my bartering in the souqs, I learned that there are reasons why they do certain things. And you know, it is a game, the haggling in the souqs. It’s not designed to annoy you or frustrate you. It’s there for them to play this game, and when someone explained that to me, I started to enjoy it. It’s quite fun now.
That was a big shift for me, because it’s part of everyday life when you go shopping in souqs.
Is there a less crowded destination you recommend within Morocco?
Rabat, the capital, is an easy-going city with a traditional medina, home to beautiful riads such as Dar Shaan and crowd-free historical sights like Le Mausolee Mohammed V. It’s also a fast-developing modern city with buzzing nightlife, shopping, music and museum scenes. There’s a surf beach right in the city center, so you could walk from your riad in the medina. Rabat Surf School offers lessons for all levels.
What kinds of accommodations do you suggest?
In Marrakesh, or any of the cities where there is a medina, I get excited by the riads. There’s just a certain magic for me when I stay in a riad. You really feel like a princess, everything’s sparkly, and there’s so much detail, even when they bring the tea on a tray. The warm hospitality for me comes across beautifully in a riad.
In the desert, some of the camps are stunning, and that experience of being under canvas is wonderful. You could also stay in one of the former palaces that have been converted into hotels. In Marrakesh, they’re very expensive, but not so in a smaller town. I stayed at Le Palais Oumensour Taroudant, a palace sleepover experience without the palatial prices.
Are there any Moroccan dishes that people should try?
Always ask what’s the speciality of this region and eke out a family-run restaurant to get that home cooking experience, and it’s very affordable.
In general, I like breakfast. It’s a big thing here. They love all the pastries and the breads, and bread is such a sacred part of their culture. If you’re on the coast, seek seafood – it will literally be from a boat to a grill to your plate.
I love traditional home-cooked Moroccan recipes such as slow-cooked tajines on coals, especially when the onion on the bottom has caramelized. And, rfissa which is chicken, lentils and onions served on shredded msemen (pastry/flatbread). Cafe Berbere on Rue Mehdi Ibn Toumert in Essaouira serves both dishes in its home-style open-kitchen restaurant.
Also the culture for Morocco is sharing, so a tajine will sit on the family table, and everyone uses the bread to eat rather than cutlery. It’s a very grounding experience.
What is a quintessential Moroccan experience?
I love to recommend the hammam experience, especially for women travelers. It is a beautiful way to connect with Moroccan women in one of their long-standing cultural traditions. Nowadays, spas offer luxurious pampering rituals that will leave your skin glowing. Every neighborhood has one. When at home, I go to Tamraght Spa House in Tamraght. I also recommend Hammam de la Rose in Marrakesh.