What does one do after leaving a three-Michelin star restaurant? In the case of Fat Duck alumni Jonny Lake and Isa Bal, the answer wasn’t clear to start.
Having started at the Heston Blumenthal-owned restaurant within two weeks of each other, Lake (its former head chef) and Bal (its former head sommelier) spent twelve years not only maintaining its impossibly-high and industry-leading standards, but its three Michelin stars.
And forming an unusually close relationship along the way.
“We left separately but, without really ever saying much, knowing that we would probably do something together,” says Lake.
Inside Trivet, based in London’s Bermondsey
Both left at the tail end of 2017, but it took them nearly two years of conceptualizing before soft-opening Trivet in October of 2019.
“You become part of something after working somewhere that long, so it really took us a long time to figure out what our restaurant was going to be,” Lake continues.
“Once we established that then it was all the normal stuff, like finding a site and finding, you know, money,” he laughs. “We had options, but we really wanted to try to do it on our own, so we didn’t have any big investors.”
Naturally, this limited their options. They would have to start with a small location on a side-street in Bermondsey, an even smaller staff, and hope a successful year would allow them to grow–and earn their personal investments back.
Trivet’s beloved pigeon dish
Jonny Lake
Of course, Covid had other plans. The restaurant was forced to close just four months after opening. “I really hope what we went through was a once-in-a-generation kind of ordeal,” says Lake.
“But I also think it was a mixed blessing. If we’d had big investors behind this–people who made pure money decisions–they would have looked at the situation and gone ‘shut it now, there’s no way you’re gonna make it through this’.”
As they were too young a company to qualify for any substantial support from the British government, they were forced to think fast.
“Which, again, I suppose worked out okay in the end, because if we took a large sum, we would be owing a large sum now,” says Bal.
Instead, they turned their attention to the sizable wine collection they’d already amassed. While people weren’t allowed to eat in the restaurant, they were permitted to leave home for outdoor recreation and basic needs, like food shopping, meaning those wishing to purchase wine could take it away or have it delivered.
“We already had some loyal customers and they were actually buying more than they needed. It was really helpful, to be honest,” Bal continues. “At the time, the way the furlough was organized, it was a terminal system for hospitality workers. Some were put out to dry.
Trivet’s ‘Drunk’ Lobster
Isa Bal
“Thankfully, we made it through. It was painful, but we made it through.”
By the time Covid restrictions started to lift, they’d become something of a lifetime to their local, food-and-drink-loving fanbase. Lake himself delivered most of Trivet’s takeaway orders throughout the pandemic, keenly asking for comments and feedback from customers to figure out what they loved – and perhaps more importantly – what they dared them to do next.
No white tablecloths, no industry mindset, no Michelin man in sight; just a true dedicated to the clientele that kept them afloat.
“I think we knew we would be looked at,” says Bal, “but there was no assumption that we’d even be considered for a Michelin star. It’s healthier that way, I think.”
Lake agrees. “I’ve also seen many people over the years, kind of, set out for that. Like, their restaurant was created to achieve recognition, and you can’t do it that way.”
Even with their respective reputations, they felt that Trivet wouldn’t fit the Michelin mold.
“Michelin is a very opaque organization, you know? Ultimately, you do what you do, they come in, and they judge you. These decisions come down to a relatively small group of people, so if you make that your priority then, just by numbers, there’s a good chance you’re going to be disappointed.”
As we know, they were anything but disappointed. After reopening as ‘Trivet Wine Bar’, hoping it would feel more accessible, post-pandemic, the restaurant went on to earn its first Michelin star in 2022.
Trivet’s Hokkaido Potato
“When we were able to reopen [in 2021], I think the most expensive main we had on the menu was £27 [$33], but we quickly realized people had much more money than we thought,” Lake laughs. “I think the first star was thanks to that instinct, to push ourselves for those guests, to reduce the menu, and make it really, really high quality”.
And so they did, creating a menu which–in my personal opinion–boasts nothing but perfect dishes.
Its ‘One has to have morels’ starter, for example, combines stuffed morels, wild garlic, Parmigiano Reggiano and crispy chicken oyster, while a main of ‘Pigeon and persimmon’ places charcoal-roasted squab pigeon against heritage carrots and cime di rapa. The bread alone (Coombeshead Farm sourdough and fresh focaccia with homemade kefir-cultured salted butter, natch) is worth a visit.
“No dish has shy flavors on the menu,” says Bal, complimenting his co-owner, and giving little credit to his own vinocultural triumphs within the restaurant.
Trivet’s wine list is A Proper Wine List, set out chronologically, following the historic beginnings of wine through to present day (with many premium selections from Georgia, Armenia and Turkey you won’t find anywhere else in London). Said list is now over 350 wines strong, with all bottles available both in-restaurant and to take away (often at a slightly discounted price; again, for the locals).
And they’ve only gone from strength-to-strength. This year, Trivet earned itself its second Michelin star, joining the ever-exclusive ranks of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Tom Sellers’ Restaurant Story and, ever so poetically, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.
“Getting one star, that’s amazing. Beyond that, it’s like…” Lake takes a second. “You just feel rare.”
“And what makes Trivet rare on that list, in your opinion?” I ask. “Do you have an elevator pitch?”
“Uhhhh, no,” says Lake with a sharp head tilt, making us all laugh. “It’s something like ‘Nordic efficiency juxtaposed with the warmth of the Mediterranean,’ isn’t it?” he turns to Bal, questioning.
“Something like that, yeah,” Bal smirks.
Being non-specific in their “sell” is, arguably, Trivet’s greatest strength. As we continue to chat through the opportunities their latest star has afforded them (more travel, the opportunity to grow their already-incredible team), one of Lake’s chefs comes over to present a two Michelin-star birthday cake for approval.
“Amazing!” Lake responds with enthusiasm. “It looks beautiful.”
Against all odds, they’ve maintained that neighborhood feel, and it’s with that I’m convinced Trivet won’t be the last venture of Lake and Bal’s kind.