While the Mexican wine industry is the oldest in the New World, dating back to the 1500s, it has only recently begun to attract international attention. In recent years, Mexico’s wines have earned medals from international competitions including the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, and in the last two decades the industry has experienced a renaissance as smaller producers explore improved farming practices, highlight the characteristic of individual vineyard sites, and gravitate towards less manipulative cellaring practices.
Even better for the industry, more winemakers and viticulturists are discovering that grapes thrive in different areas of Mexico, and extraordinary wines are not only being made in traditional winemaking regions like Baja California and Coahuila, but also in central states like San Luis Potosi, Guanajuato, and Queretaro, to name the most prominent.
“Mexican wine is truly finding its footing.” says Grant Richardson, owner of Pangea Selections, a natural wine importer and distributor based in Austin, Texas. “10 years ago, the only Mexican wines in the Texas market were either highly industrialized wines or niche productions that were very inconsistent in quality. Today, we are seeing thoughtful and well-made wines from small producers with a primary concern for the vineyards. While many of these are small estates and family farms, these growers are of international importance. Mexico’s new wave of winemakers is pushing the boundaries of quality, and the resulting wines are exhilarating.”
I could go on about Mexican wine and write about dozens of wineries, but I will observe restraint this time. These are a few favorites that I’m drinking right now which deserve your attention, as temperatures rise and the picnic, barbecue and pool party season has officially kicked off.
Emevé Cabernet Rosé, Ensenada, Baja California
This fresh rosé is an exciting example from Vinícola Emevé, a family-owned winery in Valle de Guadaupe, Baja California. Don’t let the darker color fool you; this is a balanced wine with aromas of red fruits like cherry, raspberry, pomegranate and strawberries. It is dry, with a pleasant fruit finish with hints of stone fruits and hibiscus tea. It is excellent on its own, but works well with aged cheeses, grilled salmon, salty bites like olives, white meats and spicy foods.
El Cielo Lyra Brut Rosé, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California
This remarkable sparkling rosé from Vinos El Cielo in Valle de Guadalupe is made in the traditional method from 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay, resting 36 months on the lees. It boasts aromas of peach, cherry, apple, fresh white flowers and pastries, derived from its second fermentation in the bottle. El Cielo’s sparkling wines are a collaboration between winemaker Jesús Rivera and sommelier and brand ambassador Gina Estrada.
A very elegant, medium bodied wine with fine bubbles, firm and fresh acidity and a long finish, it is excellent on its own or alongside anything you’d pair with Champagne.
Pijoan Silvana, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California
Vinos Pijoan is a small family winery in Valle de Guadalupe. Silvana Pijoan recently took over winemaking from her parents after a career as a classical dancer and sommelier in Mexico City, and this wine is named after her.
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenic Blanc, Muscat and Colombard, this lovely wine boasts aromas of white flowers like jasmine and orange blossom, and hints of tropical fruits, citrus notes and honey. Super refreshing, with a bright acidity and lingering finish, this wine will go wonderfully as an apertif, with fresh oysters, savory fruit salads and light grilled meats.
Rosadito is the first Mexican wine in a can, inspired by rose from southern France.
Rosadito, Queretaro
The terroir of Queretaro state in Central Mexico has attracted several wineries, including Spain’s Freixenet, which was a pioneer in the area, and is now a respected wine region with many exciting projects. One of them is Rosadito, Mexico’s first canned rose, developed Mexico City’s Noah Tovares and Antonio Bassalone, co-owners of independent wine shop Vinos Chidos.
Grown and vinified in Queretaro, this low intervention blend of Grenache, Macabeo and Verdejo is starting to turn heads among the city’s wine drinkers, democratizing the wine drinking experience and changing minds with every sip. Inspired in roses from southern France, Rosadito is light in color, fresh and balanced with bright acidity and notes of fresh berries. It’s the ultimate summer sipper, conveniently packaged in a can.
Dos Buhos Semillon- Sauvignon Blanc, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
Just outside the picturesque city of San Miguel de Allende, Dos Buhos is one of the few area wineries making 100% organic estate wines, which accounts for the unique terroir found in the bottle. This white blend has an enticing nose of peach, apricot, nectarines and white flowers, followed by a mineral palate with a lemon peel finish. Its racy acidity makes it ideal to pair with anything spicy, cream sauces, and fatty fish dishes such as salmon or mackerel.
Dos Buhos is a wonderful place to visit as well; the onsite restaurant serves seasonal cuisine with ingredients sorced from nearby farms, and especially designed to pair with the wonderful wines.
The wine cave at Viñedo San Miguel is a sight to behold, and the wines are of excellent quality.
Viñedo San Miguel Syrah, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato
The New World project from Italy’s Villa Petriolo, Viñedo San Miguel occupies 60 hectares on a hillside outside San Miguel de Allende, at just over 2,000 ft. above sea level. They cultivate 13 types of grape and excel especially with Malbec, but it was the syrah that captured our tastebuds.
Yes, this is a full-bodied red, but it takes a little chill nicely and it’s outstanding with anything from the grill. An aromatic wine, with notes of ripe berries, plum, bitter chocolate and hints of tobacco, it will crush steaks, burgers, grilled veggies, and even your fireside s’mores. Viñedo San Miguel makes many other award-winning wines and the winery is a joy to visit, with a stunning wine tasting cave and fine dining restaurant on site.