The world of rosé wine has expanded beyond Provence.
Like Memorial day, the first day of summer (today, in case you lost track!) seems to kick off a certain set of rituals. Outdoor grills are cleaned up and tuned up in anticipation of frequent usage, kids out of school are compiling their wish list for the next three months and wine lovers are turning to lighter libations in sync with the season. For many, that means rosé.
For many years, the pink wine, as most know, was synonymous with the south of France, particularly, the Cotes des Provence and posh places for sailing your yacht. As this series, now in its fifth year, has demonstrated, rosé has moved beyond that specific geography and most wine regions in the world produce a version. Some try to emulate Provence, but increasingly (and yay!), many are owning their own interpretations of rosé that are faithful to their grapes and regions.
“The expansion of the rosé category has been nothing short of meteoric,” says Harmon Skurnik of Skurnik Wines & Spirits, a New York City-based importer and distributor. “In the ensuing couple of decades, the pink offerings from around the world have proliferated exponentially, such that we as a company now represent over 150 pink wines from around the globe, from Turkey to Greece to Italy to Spain and even New York.”
“Today there is an embarrassment of rosé choices, and there is something for everyone!”
To wit: we start this summer-into-fall series with a “take five” of rosé that will whet your whistle and, hopefully, your curiosity for exploring a world of pink wines.
Domaine Bousquet, Gaia Rosé of Pinot Noir, 2023, Gualtallary Vineyards, Mendoza, Argentina. This rosé is not really such a stretch, coming from a French winemaking family who knows a little something about French grapes. This version comes from some of Mendoza’s highest elevation vineyards and made from organic grapes. This is a very clean, cherry-forward wine with an herbal edge, a medium structure that will hold up to grilled meats, and yet, is playful enough for happy hour on the patio, porch or by the pool.
Gabrielskloof “Rosebud” 2023, Wine of Origin, Cape South Coast, South Africa. Hailing from the Bot River/Walker Bay district, south east of Cape Town, this wine showed a very earthy, almost flinty nose. If I were blind-tasting it, I would not have known it was a rosé. This is textured in the mouth—more about mineral and earth than giddy bursts of bright fruit, though the red berries are playing as understudy. Great food wine that would go with a variety of summer fare, including barbecue and grilled shrimp with roasted corn risotto.
Kir-Yianni “L’Esprit du Lac” Vielles Vignes, Amyndeon, Greece. Hailing from high-elevation appellation in northern western Greece—an area astonishing for its alpine beauty—this is made from a noble indigenous grape, Xinomavro. The name translates to “acid and black,” but don’t let that fool you: This is a light, elegant and sprightly wine. Very light colored, a good Provence imposter, it’s dry, bright, flecked with stone-fruit notes, young fresh cherries and red berries. Yiannis Boutaris, founder of Kir-Yianni, is one of the godfathers of modern winemaking in Greece; the winery now is headed by the fifth generation.
Pasaeli Çalkarasi 2023, Aegean (Izmir) Turkey. (Also spelled Çal Karası and pronounced “shall karasi”) this is a lightly colored red-skinned grape used primarily for rosé production. The sea horse on the bottle’s label hints at what’s to come: a saline-inflected, maritime influenced wine from a south-western region not far from the Aegean Sea. However, grapes sourcing from vineyards up to nearly 3,000 feet above sea level, gives this a fresh acidity and snappy bright red berry fruits. This is a fun, adaptable wine from patio to dinner table, and a true conversation starter.
Shannon Family of Wines, Mother Vine Cinsault Rosé, 2023 Lake County, Calif. This might win the prize for best back story. The mother vine originates from Croatia (1870), and was brought to Lake County by the Ogulin family. This vine has thrived for 150 years on their ranch, alongside a small vineyard, and now 150 years later, is making its debut as an organic wine. Like a debutante, it comes in a pretty party dress—a tall, thin frosted bottle with flora etching. Out of the bottle, this is has a white floral nose, is light and fresh with a hint or strawberry, and one of the prettiest “plus ones” you’ll bring to a summer party.