Ship-To-Shore: A Bolgheri Wine Tasting Excursion From Port Of Livorno

Livorno is one of Italy’s largest ports and the largest in the Tuscany region. If you’re on a Mediterranean cruise, the port may well be one of the stops on your itinerary.

After disembarking in Livorno, most cruise passengers head to nearby Pisa, about a half hour away by taxi, or take a train to Florence, about 1-1.5 hours away.

But many veteran cruisers have already visited these iconic cities. Moreover, one doesn’t necessarily have to be a wine enthusiast to crave a countryside respite from the throngs of tourists who visit Italy each summer.

One relaxing option is to plan ahead and create an independent shore excursion to Tuscany’s Bolgheri wine region (about an hour south of Livorno by taxi).

The Bolgheri Wine Region

Bolgheri is a lesser-known but prestigious wine area located on the coast of Tuscany (in the province of Livorno, which has the same name as the port city). Except for a piece of coastline west of Via Aurelia, the region closely matches the geographical contours of Castagneto Carducci, a town named after the famous Italian poet born there.

This area had been quietly producing quality white wines and rosés but gained international prominence in the ‘70s when one of its Bordeaux-style red wines snagged first place in a tasting of 33 wines from 11 countries.

Red wines made in Bolgheri—now commonly called Super Tuscans—are all made with international grapes rather than those native to the region. The area’s white wines, typically made with Vermentino grapes, are light-bodied and refreshing. Due to the area’s proximity to the coast, they have a hint of saltiness and acidity.

The region’s unique microclimate, blessed with hills that gently slope toward the coastline, abundant sun, and sea breezes, is conducive to growing these grapes, resulting in bold, dark fruity wines. The soil is comprised of sand, clay, and limestone.

An old adage in Bolgheri warns, “No significant wines could be made near the sea,” but a new generation of winemakers has dispelled that myth, creating Super Tuscans and other wines that have garnered a reputation for excellence.

Bolgheri whites achieved Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) status in 1984, followed by the region’s red and rosato wines in 1994. (Bolgheri Sassicaia split off as a separate DOC in 2013.)

The Bolgheri and Bolgheri Sassicaia wine consortium includes 73 members whose vineyards represent 99 percent of the appellation’s overall vineyard acreage. The area is also known for producing high-quality extra virgin olive oil.

Winery visits in Livorno province offer guests the chance to taste spectacular wines in their terroir and to meet winemakers, their teams, and often their families. Tastings and tours offer opportunities to learn about the land, the wines, and the region’s food, customs, and culture.

Here is a sampling of a few of the many dozens of wineries in the region:

Tenuta Argentiera

Tenuta Argentiera is located in the small town of Donoratico (a hamlet of Castagneto Carducci) near the coast. The hills of this southernmost portion of the Bolgheri wine region offer stunning views of the Tuscan archipelago.

The winery’s name (Argentiera) derives from the Latin word for silver (argento) because the area was once known for the silver mines in its hills. Although the property dates back to the 16th century, the Fratini family founded the 80-hectare estate in 1999, Since 2016, the modern winery has been owned by Austrian entrepreneur and wine enthusiast Stanislaus Turnauer.

The exceptional red, white, and rosé wines in the cellar include Argentiera Bolgheri DOC Superiore, Ventaglio Toscana IGT, Villa Donoratico Bolgheri DOC Rosso, and Eco di Mare Toscana IGT Vermentino.

Winery tours begin in the Enoteca, located in a restored, ancient Bolgheri farmhouse. Visitors can experience the story of the wines through images, guided tastings, and pairings with local recipes. Upon reservation, guests can also book lunch with tastings in the cellar or a private room with a view and tour the vineyards with the estate manager. Those who book tours become “Argentiera Ambassadors” with exclusive access to historic vintages and other select products. Learn more about Tenuta Argentiera tours and tastings.

Podere Sapaio

Podere Sapaio is in the quaint hamlet of Castagneto Carducci, about 30 miles from Livorno. In 1999, Massimo Piccin, a young Venetian engineer passionate about wine, purchased a small sharecropping farm. With his father’s help, he transformed it into a modern winery emphasizing sustainability and responsibly coupling winemaking traditions with state-of-the-art technology. All the work is done by hand, following artisanal methods.

The 25 hectares of vineyards on the 40-acre property are predominantly sited on a plain, with soils comprising red-brown sand, some stone, and clay.

The organic-certified winery specializes in two Super Tuscan reds. Sapaio, a Toscana IGT, is the winery’s flagship wine label. It’s made with a classic blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot, and 10 % Cabernet Franc. Volpolo, a Bolgheri DOC is made from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 15% Petit Verdot. Both are crafted in collaboration with Florentine oenologist and agronomist Carlo Ferrini,

The winery has partnered with the Bolgheri Bistrot restaurant (in the village of Bolgheri). Here, visitors can enjoy a special tasting of Sapaio wines paired with typical Tuscan cuisine.

Poggio al Tesoro

Poggio al Tesoro was born as a passion project of the Allegrini family, Marilisa and her brother Walter, and now includes her daughters, Calotta and Caterina. Also located in Castagneto Carducci, it follows the Bolgheri DOC tradition of crafting Bordeaux-style blends from international grape varieties and whites from Vermentino. The winery emphasizes sustainability and stewardship of the land.

Sondraia Bolgheri Superiore DOC is its flagship wine. Produced with the best grapes grown on the estate’s sand, clay, and limestone soils, it is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. Since its creation with the 2003 vintage, this Super Tuscan has earned numerous awards from Italian and national press. The name of its white, Solosole Vermentino Bolgheri DOC, expresses the bond between the Mediterranean grape variety and its terroir close to the sea.

Tastings begin in the historic vineyard of Chiesina di San Giuseppe and lead to the Salotto in Vigna tasting area, which is located at the southernmost portion of the vineyard, surrounded by oak trees. Learn more about Poggio al Tesoro tours and tastings.

IF YOU GO

• Always check with individual wineries before your visit to confirm opening hours and costs, and to make reservations.
• Reserving a private car and driver (or taxi) in advance is the most convenient way to travel from the port of Livorno to the Bolgheri wine area. You can also arrange car rentals with Colombaioni Autonoleggi.
• Regional trains run from Livorno to the Castegneto-Donoratico station (about a 45-minute ride). From there, you would likely need to make advance arrangements with a winery for local transport.
• Additional restaurants highly recommended by Podere Sapaio in the Bolgheri area include Osteria La Magona in Castegneto Carducci for its excellent meat cuisine and an exceptional wine list with great vintage depth; Osteria San Michele in Donoratico for its friendly atmosphere and creative environment (the cuisine has Campanian influences); and La Bottega di Elena in Bolgheri for a quality snack.

• Not-to-be-missed attractions include Viale dei Cipressi (the Cypress Road in Bolgheri) and Carducci’s home (now a museum in Castegneto Carducci). The pedestrian-friendly town of Bolgheri (population estimated at 200) comprises paved alleyways developed around a Medieval castle.

For more information:

• Visit Tuscany (official tourism site)
• Avinturo Bolgheri wine tours and tastings