Cheers to Olympic Drinking

Wines that can (almost) compete with the drama of the Olympic Games

The Paris edition of Summer Olympic games has had its share of drama: gender eligibility in boxing, Seine River water quality for swimmers, score changes in the women’s gymnastics floor final, Simone Biles’ amazing comeback and that French pole vaulter’s battle of the bulge. For the final days of the games, I’ve come up with a wine-centric Olympics because, if the drama continues, I’m gonna need a glass or two, and so will you. Here’s how the games (and wines) are stacking up so far. Get out your score cards and tasting notes!

Archery. Well, this might be too obvious, but how often does a wine perfectly reflect a sports theme? The Vireton Archery Summit (2023) from Willamette Valley is a medium-bodied Pinot Gris that shows yellow apples, juicy peach and a melon duo of honeydew and cantaloupe.

Cycling. One of the many interesting human stories in this Olympics is that of Mikhail Yakovlev, a Russian-born cyclist who moved to Israel with his family and now competes in track cycling the under that flag. He briefly set an Olympic record in the men’s sprint, making history for Israel and, many say, is setting an example for an upcoming generation of Israeli cyclists. Cheer him on later this week with a rose from Galil Mountain Winery (Galilee), a dry floral and red-fruited blend of international-border-crossing grapes: Syrah, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, Barbera and Grenache, proving that French, Spanish and Italian grapes can play nice together.

Gymnastics: balance beam and vault. Only one name you need here and no explanation: Simone the Great. Salute the GOAT medalist from Texas with a bouquet roses and a quartet of roses from her home state: Pedernales Cellars’ “Over the Moon,” a tropical-fruited Rhone-varietal blend; Duchman’s full-bodied, cherry-inflected blend of Dolcetto and Montepulciano; Bending Branch’s Tannat Frizzante, a low-fizz floral, yet tart sparkler from the pioneer of the grape in Texas; and Spicewood Vineyards’ lighter-hued and styled version made from Cinsault (rhymes with vault!).

Mixed dinghy. Ahoy, landlubbers! You’ll find this sport under the sailing category and you’ll find that Austria won a surprise gold medal in what the official Olympic news site called a “nail-biting inaugural mixed dingy race.” Also surprising is Gluegglich, a rose table wine from Loimer, a well-known sparkling producer in lower Austria. Made from native grapes, this is a low-alcohol, natural rose with a slightly cloudy hue (non filtered) and a fresh red-fruit profile focused on baby strawberries and a tarter fruit such as cranberry or pomegranite.

Rugby Sevens. Rugby is the national sport of Georgia, the natural-wine capital of the Caucasus region, and this 2021 Goruli Mtsvane (pronounced Go-roo-lee Mah-ts-vah-nay) from Chateau Mukhrani is a shimmery straw-colored wine made from 100% native grapes from the Kartli region. This is one shows fresh yellow plums, quince and lightly honeyed tones against a backdrop of minerality.

Rhythmic gymnastics. This is both a mesmerizing and puzzling event, involving floor routines and an apparatus such as hoop, ball, clubs, ribbon and rope and requiring quite a bit of agility and coordination. The German women’s team has captured the gold and a fourth place in this event, so I’m celebrating that with two equally agile Mosel Rieslings from Villa Huesgen. The “By the Glass” bottle is a light-hearted but no-less-delicious little sister of “Blue Slate.” It was bright with zesty lemon and mineral and the proper markers of a Riesling meant to be drunk you. Blue Slate, so named for the soils (actually more of a gray), is a bit more elegant—not quite as out of the gate with its fruit expression as BTG. This has deeper orchard fruits with a baked-pie or tart quality and a bit of a longer mouthfeel.

Surfing. Now if you think I’m going to recommend a California wine, think again. I’m looking to Sicily, Italy’s second major surging destination after Sardinia. The Gazzerotta Senaria Grillo Superiore is a high-octane (14%) white made from one of the island’s native grapes, which delivers a medium, and often-full-bodied wine. This one is full of white fruits such as pear and apple, with warm layers of hazelnut and buttery brioche. If you want to ride the red wave, the Tascante “Ghiaia Nera” from the Etna Rosso DOC, is both bright and dark at the same time, made from native Nerello Mascalese grapes. Very fresh and tart with lots of mouthwatering acidity.

You can’t have a discussion about the Olympics without a nod to Greece, and you can do that with the rose from Zoe, an aromatic blend from the north made from the native Agiorgitiko (70% ) and Moscofilero grapes. Expresses white flowers, roses, tart spring-like fruits but more driven by its acid, texture and florality.

Finally, to France herself, host of the summer games, raise a glass of “Le Rose,” a structured, Grenache-driven rose from Chêne Bleu, a winery resurrected on the site of a historic abbey in the Vaucluse region, Provence. With an herbal underlay and tinges from the vegetable garden, this is a savory and fresh break from the very cherry/berry roses.