Charleston delights all the senses – visually with its cobblestone streets and charming architecture, audibly with the local twang and, y’all…then there’s the food, which is a sensory overload on every level. From its dives to its elaborate divines, there is something for every budget, palette and person in Charleston.
I’m a Virginia native and current Florida resident. Throughout my 38 years on planet Earth, Charleston has been the destination of choice on family road trips and, now that I’m an adult, a haven for long weekends with my wife and group outings with our dear friends. When I consider what keeps me coming back for more, it’s Charleston’s food scene more than any other aspect of the city.
There’s a reason “The Holy City” has been dubbed “the food capital of the south.” This is how to eat your way through the various neighborhoods and discover your own favorite spots to return to time and again.
Breakfast
That long, narrow shop on King Street with a line out the door since its 2014 opening? Yep, it’s Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit. Order any biscuit concoction with their pimiento cheese, blackberry jam, goat cheese or sausage gravy. The spot opens at 8am daily – you’ll want to get there as early as possible to avoid the College of Charleston kids rolling out of bed late. If the line is heinous, there’s another Callie’s counter inside Charleston City Market about a mile southeast.
For a more sit-down affair, head south to the bustling intersection of King and Broad Streets to Millers All Day. Exuding the charm of a historic pharmacy-turned-poppin’ modern bistro, their cream cheese icing-drenched cinnamon roll and frittata with whipped feta are among the crowd faves. Bodega – right behind the Charleston Visitor Center – also stands out for its party brunch vibe all week long, with a cereal milk latte and super large, shareable cocktails that can serve a large table.
Coffee
I consider myself an easygoing person, but I will admit to being a complete coffee snob. Second State Coffee is the spot for freshly roasted beans and killer pour-overs in town, with beans sourced on the regular from the best coffee-producing nations. Its principal café is tucked in Harleston Village – about three blocks west of King Street – in an old, window-draped, house-gone-coffee shop for ultra-sunny vibes.
The Harbinger and Harken – sister cafes – get a special nod in this category for their country home ambiance and expansive baked goods (like the fluffy quiche with squash, sweet potato and more). Its expansive coffee selections – drip to creative lattes – feature beans from Greenville-bred Methodical Coffee, widely regarded as one of the best roasters in the country.
Lunch
For an on-the-fly yet elegant deli experience, The Pass is a block west of King Street and has an intimate menu of piled-high sandwiches and salads. Go for the “Such a Nice Italian Boy” mammoth, accented with a pickled Calabrian chili relish and pistachio-loaded mortadella. You’re welcome.
Herd Provisions is also a local gem tucked north just off Hampton Park – it’s open for lunch on Fridays and Saturdays at noon, and at 3pm Monday through Thursday. Amid rotating specials, their beef fat fries, creative burgers and entrees like a lemon tea butter-doused pork chop dazzle at lunch and dinner. If your lunch calls for a beer (or three), Edmund’s Oast Brewing Company is a midpoint stop between Charleston and North Charleston. In addition to 20 craft brewskis to choose from, their oven-fired pizzas and open outdoor spaces with dots of palmettos are a vibe.
Aperitivo
A stone’s throw east of Charleston City Market, you may find a sign outside The Palmetto Hotel claiming “the best Spressitini in town.” Well, they’re not lying – topped with an alcohol-infused foam, enjoy one at its hotel lobby bar while chatting it up with some of the friendliest bartenders in town.
Félix has one of the best cocktail menus in Holy City and exudes elegant yet approachable French vibes. As the masses swirl outside on King Street, opt for a Gin-Forward Old Fashioned (yes, gin) and beware, in the best way possible, of the absinthe-dashed Green Fairy.
Dinner
For a truly unique dining experience and splurge, Honeysuckle Rose is the one. Wednesday through Sunday, the intimate, dimly lit space hosts a five- and eight-course chef’s tasting menu and wine pairing experience for a couple of dozen lucky diners, utilizing the freshest of local ingredients. Between each course, the chef and sommelier come out and announce the dish and wine, adding that much more pizzazz to the experience. Seats run in the $150 to $250 range, and you’ll need to book well in advance.
82 Queen is another upscale must – if the weather isn’t too swampy, snag a seat in its romantic courtyard with a stately gazebo, and, regardless of where you sit, start any meal with its ultra-creamy she-crab soup.
Seafood is also king in Charleston and throughout the coastal region. For dinner Tuesdays through Saturdays, Chubby Fish in the heart of downtown offers a quaint setting for noshing on such well-designed, intricate dishes. In addition to an expansive raw bar and oyster menu, save room for its tilefish-loaded curry with eggplant, chilis and rice.
SHIKI has been an unassuming Charleston favorite – it’s in between a pharmacy and shipping store, y’all – for sushi rolls and Japanese fare. No reservation is needed, and surprising finds like uni, quail yolk and A5 wagyu often await.
Bar
Vintage Lounge is as visually beautiful – with gold splashed ceilings and bar accents – as it is a bumpin’ place to be for wine. Its 200-plus bottle wine menu spans the red-white-and-bubbly spectrum, and its super-knowledgeable staff will talk through a bottle’s story and any questions a non-wino may have (ahem, me). Another favorite and well-kept secret (sorry for ruining it), Scotty Doesn’t Know is a speakeasy with an antique-y flair. Its entrance is through a freezer door, and inside, you’re greeted with complex cocktails that will warm you right up.