Queen Of Cups Is Glastonbury’s Quirkiest Success Story

“Utterly bloody sensational,” “a true hidden gem,” “if I could give this 6/5 I would” – they’re the kind of reviews any restaurateur would dream of. And Ayesha Kalaji’s reality.

Her quirky Middle Eastern restaurant, Queen of Cups, has taken the sleepy-outside-of-festival time parish of Glastonbury by storm in recent months, earning rave review after rave review.

Not that a single one of them came easy. “We opened the day after people were allowed to eat indoors again and it was a very nervous world and a very difficult time to open a restaurant,” says Kalaji, reflecting on Queen of Cups’ pandemic-era opening. “But we worked incredibly hard to make this restaurant a fun, calm and community based respite from the anxiety of the outside world.”

And that, it is. After being handed the keys to the space on April 2, 2021, Kalaji spent six weeks turning a run-down coaching house into a luxurious pub-restaurant.

“If anyone asks if you want to turn a 17th century coaching house into a restaurant in 6 weeks, say no!” she jokes. “I was testing recipes by day and painting by night. I even had my Mum jet washing the back garden.”

Originally a beloved local pub, Kalaji wanted to make sure she and the team kept the hearts of the locals (see: no pretentious drinks, dishes or price points) while setting themselves apart from what was already on offer locally.

More specifically, by launching a restaurant with a spiritual tilt. In addition to a number of mystic murals within the space, Queen of Cups was named after a tarot card symbolising feminine energy and connection. “She’s a total rock star and her character symbolises things that are important to me as a person and a chef – feminine energy, conviviality, emotional connection, and compassion.”

And Glastonbury, widely regarded for its mystical and spiritual history, quite literally ate it up.

“I remember answering the phone and taking our very first booking for a group of Druids. ‘Welcome to your crazy new life!’ I thought to myself,” she quips. “This was the start of what was to come in Glastonbury, in fact our only rule is, you can come in and be whoever you want to be – a fairy, a warlock, a gremlin, whatever you like – just as long as you’re wearing shoes! We gave them complimentary Champagne to celebrate them being our very first booking.”

Of course, Kalaji’s undeniable talent – developed through stints at Parsons Nose, The Palomar, Sosban, The Good Egg, and Bubala – hasn’t hurt, either. Her menu, packed with unique Middle Eastern ingredients and influences (Kalaji’s family is Jordanian), is a shining example of Levantine cuisine pushed to its limits.

“Since the meteoric rise of Ottolenghi, Middle Eastern food is no longer mysterious to the average diner. Customers know what sumac and zataar are, and I have to really go into the depths of my store cupboard to surprise people,” she says. “I still relish giving people food they’ve never tried, there’s so much in the larder to explore.

“Another thing I like to play around with is texture. There are beloved textures in Middle Eastern cuisine that come from ingredients such as Mulukhiya, which is pleasantly and moreishly slimey – it may be odd to some western palates, but that’s delicious and I love the idea of expanding people’s idea of what’s pleasurable.”

And those risks have paid off. Quickly gaining recognition among industry professionals, Queen of Cups earned both a Michelin Bib Gourmand and the title of ‘Best Newcomer’ at the Estrella Damm Top 100 Gastropubs last year.

“Some days I wake up gobsmacked that people have given us these awards and accolades – I’m just making great hummus!” she jokes (despite her not-so-humble take on the dip coming paired with a smoked tomato and date confiture, preserved lime, apricot harissa hogget and almond).

“I remember reading the email from Michelin and jumping up and down on the bed screaming. I always knew I wasn’t reaching for a [Michelin] star – it’s not appropriate for where we are or the economics of the restaurant – but to get a Bib Gourmand in this part of the world is so exciting.”

The awards, she admits, have also made a ‘huge’ difference to her customer base, though she still keeps a sharp focus on the local community, hosting regular events like LGBTQ+ nights, comedy evenings, and jazz performances. “Your locals are the ones that look after you in the depths of winter and you should never take them for granted,” she says.

With Queen of Cups now firmly established among locals and tourists alike, Kalaji is focused on the future.

Kalaji hopes to continue building on the restaurant’s strong foundations by deepening its ties to the local community, expanding its team, and introducing more people to the flavors and experiences she’s passionate about. “When I win, everyone around me wins. I want us all to win together,” she says.