Lonely Planet Destination Editor Melissa Yeager just returned from sailing the fjords of the coastal route of Norway. Here, she shares an alternative, ecofriendly option for experiencing the wonder of the Norwegian landscape from the sea.
When I travel, I personally crave the flexibility to decide my itinerary and timeline. The freedom to spend more time in places I love as well as sampling the culinary treasures of each destination. So typically, a cruise is not on the top of my list when it comes to planning.
Yet, there are some places where I think sailing on a ship is the better option – one of those being sailing the fjords of Norway, where standing on the bow of a ship as the spectacular landscape soars above you will truly leave you in awe of this world we live in.
I have a bit of a conflicted inner dialogue when it comes to cruises. The environmental impacts are well documented, with pollution and food waste among the top concerns. Many ships have ballooned into vessels with populations rivaling small towns (7600 people on the largest ship sailing these days), contributing to overtourism in delicate places. On the other hand, cruising makes travel more accessible for some people – for example, if you have mobility concerns. Cruises also allows access to places off limits to some travelers and families to enjoy time together with more ease. It feels a bit inconsiderate to write off this method of travel that can be empowering to others with that in mind.
That’s why I was super intrigued to receive an invitation from Havila Voyages, a cruise line that launched in 2019, navigating Norway’s Kystruten (coast route). Havila boasts of being an eco-friendly cruise line, tackling the concerns of cruise ship travel head-on, and seeking to minimize the associated environmental footprint. With strategies like running on hybrid power to limit emissions, as well as designing food services that avoid food waste onboard, the company is committed to reducing its impact.
What was the vibe on the cruise ship?
What makes the Kystruten route special is it is the historic government-regulated shipping route that ferries goods and people along the coastal communities of Norway. So while the ship looks like a sleek cruise ship and has amenities like restaurants, gym, jacuzzi and shops, it also supports the local communities by helping residents and freight move between these coastal towns.
There are two companies that currently have contracts with the Norwegian government to operate on this route. I sailed with Havila Voyages, which has 179 cabins and can host about 640 total people onboard. It’s a rather small ship when compared with the mega cruise lines which can host several thousand. What I truly loved about this business model, is on this smaller ship, you can determine the length of your stay, hopping off and on at different ports. That means you decide the length of your adventure. For my trip I hopped on at Tromsø and hopped off at Trondheim – a three-night cruise which was the perfect amount of time for me.
What’s the food like on board (and do they really address food waste)?
You’re not going to find the endless hot buffet on this ship – that’s a good thing. Dinner is your typical plated, three-course meal. Breakfast and lunch are more like small plates with a cold buffet of charcuterie, breads, fruits and vegetables. You’re welcome to order as many small plates as you want – but they’ll come out perfectly hot. I found that strategy contributed to a higher quality of food than on other cruises I have experienced, and I left meals feeling full but not overly stuffed. As a result of this food service strategy, Havila boasts it has dropped food waste on the vessels to 58 grams per guest.
A note on cleanliness: I also really enjoyed that the ships have a place when you enter the dining room to wash your hands with soap and water, not just hand sanitizing gel.
Along with its main dining room, the ship also has a five-course fine-dining experience in its Hildring restaurant. It’s available for an additional charge for those booking the cruise with full-board included.
What was the most scenic experience of the trip?
Without a doubt, sailing through the Troll Fjord. Havila’s ship can run on battery power for up to four hours (you’ll see the giant chargers for the batteries at port when you dock). This is a plus for the environment by curtailing emissions in these sensitive waterways. It’s also good for noise pollution as well, as you don’t have the clanging noise of a combustion engine as an unwanted soundtrack to the scenery. You can just enjoy the views as the ship glides through the waters of this magical fjord.
Pro tip: Try the “troll drink” – which is basically a hot toddy with Bacardi in it – to help warm you as the scenery passes by.
What was the most under-the-radar activity you enjoyed?
Jumping on a Zodiac to go eagle watching in Lofoten Islands. This excursion gets rave reviews online and for good reason. It’s absolutely so much fun. You suit up in waterproof jumpsuits, life jackets and goggles, then board the Zodiac where you sit horseback style in the boat. You then zip over the ocean waves to a couple spots where eagles frequent, getting a view of them as they soar and land on the rocky cliffs.
What is the one thing that you did not expect?
The Northern Lights button on my phone in my room. I missed the lights the first night, and it was cloudy the rest of the trip so I never got the chance to hear it go off. But I love that you don’t have to stay up waiting, watching the sky. Just head off to sleep and you’ll get a wake up call if those spectacular lights shine.
What was the handiest thing you packed?
Layers! Specifically my Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody jacket. I bought mine seven years ago and though it’s a bit pricey – it’s been well worth the money. It is the handiest thing for travel as it packs up really small but delivers a lot of warmth. It’s the perfect top layer for a crisp autumn day in Norway.
What should I watch before I go?
Check out People of the North, an English-language series on PBS in the United States about Norway (though it can be found on some media outlets across Europe and in Australia as well). They were actually filming season 3 while I was there, and I had a chance to meet the hosts who are passionate about telling the stories of the communities of Norway. A couple episodes will have you anxious to make a trip to the North.
Melissa traveled to Norway on invitation from Havila Voyages. Lonely Planet does not accept freebees in exchange for positive coverage.