Nestled right on the Sea of Japan with an ever-trafficked fishing port, Kanazawa is as good as it gets in Japan for fresh fish.
Sure, spots like Tsukiji Market in Tokyo are world-renowned for their high-end exports – and for high prices – that land on tables globally. But Kanazawa airs on the side of keeping the overwhelming majority of its most-prized catches within the west-central Ishikawa Prefecture it anchors. This means its public markets, grocery stores and restaurants are loaded with rare, beyond-decadent sushi and sashimi that you won’t get anywhere else, all at borderline unreal prices. For reference, a 15-piece upscale omakase (chef’s choice) experience that would run US$150–200+ in major cities outside of Japan, you can snag for one quarter – or even one-tenth – of the price in Kanazawa.
And, along the way, you’ll have divine and prized morsels like you’ve never had before. Kanazawa is regarded as yellowtail heaven (or buri as it is known locally). Its waters also bear seafood that most have never even heard of, including a saltwater eel (anago), “sweet shrimp” (yes, hokkoku, the local shrimp, has a sweet taste), massive crabs and nodoguro, a blackthroat seaperch that will have you booking a trip back to Kanazawa pronto. The best fish is a way of life here, and it’s everywhere at local dining destinations, from public market morsels to a conveyor-belt gem that’s more of an art gallery than a restaurant. Amid your options, here are the best places for dabbling in Japan’s sushi capital.
1. Omicho Market
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This is the city’s bustling city market, lovingly known as “Kanazawa’s Kitchen.” Inside Omicho Market, you’ll find more than 170 stalls and shops selling everything from massive Ruby Roman grapes to larger-than-life snow crabs to, oh yes, fresh fish bites, sushi and sashimi. It’s open from 9am to 5pm daily.
Choose and nosh on what looks appealing and intriguing to you. A favorite is grilled anago on a stick, with a hearty portion running ¥500 (US$3.25) from a handful of vendors. Another must-try dish is kaisedon, which is basically a sushi bowl made from the market’s fish. The Yutaka Saison shop does it best in the market – look for the neon yellow curtains out front; you can’t miss it.
If navigating it all feels intimidating, there are plenty of guided, translated tours available, too. Visit Kanazawa, the city’s tourism association, offers one that includes a cooking workshop.
2. Kirari
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Conveyor belt sushi, anyone? It’s worth a trip on its own, or if you’re looking to kill some extra time awaiting a train at Kanazawa Station, this unsuspecting neighbor delights. It gets all of its fresh fish daily – scallops, the reddest of tuna and tai (sea bream), among them, running for ¥2000 (US$13) for a 7-piece assortment – directly from the port. Outside of the principal Kanazawa spot, and if you find yourself elsewhere in Japan, Kirari has outposts in Takasaki and Tokyo’s Hochiojo.
For a nightcap and to experience some more local flair, head upstairs to the Station Bar. The friendly and well-versed staff make super-elaborate cocktails, ranging from Japanese fruit-mixed sips to sake-infused ice cream. There’s a world-class liquor selection piled high behind the bar and, sometimes, overtaking the bar – see how many bottles you can count.
3. Origo
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Kanazawa and the Ishikawa Prefecture have a growingly international flair, equating, in part, to some unique food collabs. This Italian-Japanese restaurant from Matteo Alberti operates on a reservation-only basis and serves a set seasonal menu for ¥13,000 (US$85). It’s a flavorful journey spanning curated wines, fluffy focaccia and locally-inspired bites, like gnocchi with shrimp. Fun fact and perhaps an added testament to Origo’s quality: in 2024, Alberti won a global photography contest for a snap of a hanging buri in the restaurant.
4. Otome Sushi
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Michelin-star alert! This Kanazawa original has not only one, but two stars and specializes in tsumami (small dishes). Reservations are required, and you’ll want to book as far in advance as possible, perhaps even pre-trip. Once you’re in Otome Sushi, you’re at the chef’s discretion menu-wise, but don’t worry; you’re in the best of hands. Along the way and at its simple yet elegant black counter, you’ll try 20 or so bites (¥22,000/US$144) focusing on the best seasonal finds. On a given night, that may include aka ika (squid), sea urchin or bedazzled – grilled or vinegared – mackerel. You will not leave hungry.
5. Barrier
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Consider Barrier the ultra-trendy spot for a totally unique and vibe-y night out. Resembling a contemporary art gallery versus any sushi restaurant you’ve ever seen, you walk through a set of automatic white doors and are faced with streamlined, white, sit-down bliss with select paintings on the lower level. Upstairs are all black rooms with individual red table setups – you sit on the floor to enjoy the meal.
Once you’re seated, you pick one of five courses, labeled A, B, C and D (plus a vegetarian option) with prices ranging ¥4000–9000 (US$26–59). It’s all served in a shelved box – you pull out each shelf when you’re ready, and a bowled concoction awaits, often including the likes of anago, pickled horse mackerel, rock oysters and all the in-between. You can certainly walk in, but make a reservation to be safe – it’s open from 11am to 9pm daily.
6. Kanazawa Tamazushi
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A major local favorite, this restaurant has been around for seven-plus decades. It’s a dinner destination for family spreads and friend catch-ups alike, with its sushi bar and fish-filled glass cases taking center stage. It can get quite busy, so a reservation doesn’t hurt. You can go a couple of different routes here – à la carte spanning the staples to exotic pufferfish spectrum – or a multi-coursed affair for two in the ¥15,000 range (US$98). Beyond its main restaurant, Kanazawa Tamazushi also has one in Korinbo Tokyu Sq in town.