As London shifts into its least-lovely season (and I should be clear, I am a well-established member of Team I’m Going To Scream If I Leave Work And It’s Dark Again), I’ve decided to take on a new perspective this month.
Sure, it’s cold. Sure, it’s dark. But, given we have the choice between staying in and being cold and miserable, or going out and warming ourselves up in some of London’s best restaurants, November might also be the best excuse to be a hedonistic foodie we’ve had all year.
Whether your SAD-season remedy takes the form of a bottomless brunch, a lively evening sipping globally-inspired cocktails, or a full-on culinary adventure under the glow of open fire, these are the best restaurants in London to get you started.
Khao Bird
Khao Bird has fast become my favorite spot for Thai food in the city, bringing a vibrant, authentic taste of Siamese street food to Borough Market. Helmed by head chef Luke Larsson (previously of Samuay & Sons, 100 Mahaseth and Bo.lan), the menu dives into hearty, herbaceous dishes that pack a punch, including a spicy Sussex veg som tam (balanced with Bermondsey Street honey) and a worth-the-trip-alone Pork Hung Ley (a Burmese curry with slow roasted Sussex pork, peanuts, broth, wild ginger and pickled garlic. If you’re anything like me, you’ll also be delighted to discover it’s taken over the cinematic location of Bridget Jones’ flat; no blue soup, I’m afraid, but it’s perfect spot to get everyone in your love triangle together before they have an impromptu rumble on the streets below nonetheless. Taan hai a-roi.
The Globe Tavern, 8 Bedale Street Upstairs, London SE1 9AL
Ekstedt at The Yard
Ekstedt at The Yard, London
Niklas Ekstedt’s first London venture has yet to be awarded the Michelin stars of its older sibling, Stockholm’s Ekstedt, but it is, in my opinion, only a matter of time. Channeling the rustic, fire-first cooking synonymous with the award-winning chef, Ekstedt at The Yard moves beyond the mere “smoke and char” laurels of its London competitors and dives into the full flavor spectrum that open-fire cooking provides. Case in point? The Flambadou oyster, served with beurre blanc and enjoyed on a private, table-by-table trip to the open kitchen to watch the chefs work their magic. The ‘Journey to Scandinavia’ menu is start-to-finish perfect, and best enjoyed with the restaurant’s truly outstanding volcanic wine pairing.
3-5 Great Scotland Yard, London SW1A 2HN
Sambaroom at Sushisamba
Sambaroom at Sushisamba, London
While Sushisamba is well-known for its global mash-up of Japanese, Brazilian and Peruvian cuisine, Sambaroom’s mixologists have taken things a step further in the restaurant’s still-fairly-secret new bar. It’s a stunning spot for pre- or post-dinner drinks, benefiting from the same 39th floor views that have made Heron Tower so Insta-infamous, with the added bonus of having one of the most interesting cocktail menus in the city. Martini lovers (hi, comrades) will adore the Four Seasons (shiso-infused Roku gin, Mancino Sakura vermouth and calamansi shochu).
39th Floor, 110 Bishopsgate, London EC2N 4AY
The Tent (at the End of the Universe)
The Tent (at the End of the Universe), London
If dining inside a small tent among the stars sounds like your kind of adventure, The Tent (at the End of the Universe) is going to require a booking, stat. Hidden (quite literally, there is zero signage) just off of Regent Street, chef Javier’s Middle Eastern-inspired small plates menu is reason enough to visit, but the restaurant’s new guest chef series, ‘Override’, will incentivize just about any card-carrying London foodie. Kicking off on the 28th, the series will host chefs from Rita’s, Singburi and Planque, offering exclusive tasting menus that showcase their respective signature styles for one night only. Strictly available by reservation, get your tickets here while you can.
17 Little Portland St, London W1W 8BP
La Goccia
La Goccia, London
Despite being located in the center of it, La Goccia is everything Covent Garden isn’t; calm, spacious, and generally lacking in tourists. A Petersham Nurseries outpost, the casual-yet-refined restaurant attracts locals with its luxe interpretation of cicchetti and an emphasis on seasonality. It’s brand new Pizzetta and Bloody Mary Sunday brunch only adding to its appeal. Each week, guests can now indulge in a selection of handcrafted Pizzettas, brunch specials and dolci, all complemented by unlimited Bloody Marys or Bellinis for £28 ($36) per person. Don’t skip the Eggs Al Purgatorio, with eggs poached in a spicy tomato sauce, or the La Goccia Signature Fried Chicken, which is impossibly crispy and – let’s face it – the perfect
1 Floral St, London WC2E 9FB