Where Lonely Planet staffers traveled in November

Destinations

November in the northern hemisphere can be a tricky month with dark nights and that unmistakable drift toward winter. Most people would pull on their comfiest socks and stay put. But the LP team had other ideas.

From Porto’s cobalt tiles to the blue-sky domes of Uzbekistan, the glassy waters of the Solomon Islands and the golden sands of Jordan, it’s safe to say they had a busy and beautiful time, chasing every shade of adventure. Here’s where they went, what they loved and the advice they brought back.

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Porto, Portugal

Claire Naylor, Freelance Editor

Claire’s top picks for Porto

1. Best experience: Sunsets rightly get a lot of hype in Porto. Prime spots to enjoy them include Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar and Jardim do Morro, both in Vila Nova de Gaia, but an outside seat at a riverside bar in Ribeira on our first evening served us just as well. We relaxed over a couple of beers as we took in the streaks of pink and orange in the sky, the reflections on the water and watched as the city’s lights flicked on.

2. Best value: Porto was built upon the trade of port wine, the history of which you can explore for hours at any of the former port lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia. These usually include tours of cellars with tastings starting from €20. For those tight on time or money, individual glasses of port can be bought for about €3 or flights of five for €8 at the bars, restaurants and port houses surrounding the famous cellars.

3. What you can’t miss: I hate crowds. Can’t bear them. So it’s saying something that one of my favorite moments on this trip was visiting the beautiful Livario Lello, a bookstore that is so popular that you can’t get in without having booked and paid for a timed-entry ticket in advance. 

The sandstone formation of Ichan Kala
Uzbekistan is home to some of Central Asia’s most striking architecture, like Ichan Kala. Akanksha Singh for Lonely Planet

Uzbekistan

Akanksha Singh, Destination Editor

Akanksha’s top picks for Uzbekistan

1. Where I stayed: Hotel Shahriston, Bukhara. Beautifully located and minutes away from all the must-see attractions. The hotel comes with its own hamam, a great breakfast spread and a friendly house cat (a bonus in my books as LP’s resident cat lady).

2. Most memorable meal: Terrassa Café and Restaurant, Khiva. Rooftop views of the historic Ichan Kala (inner city), a violinist weaving between tables and stellar food (I got the beef lagman, a noodle dish) and cocktails. Would recommend asking your hotel or guide to reserve a table at sunset for the full impact. 

3. Best experience: We visited Samarkand (including the Golden Mosque; the cover of the Central Asia guidebook) and Tashkent (much freshly baked non was eaten at Chorsu Bazaar) but the one thing I’d definitely do again is the Afrosiyab train, which we took between Bukhara, Samarkand and Tashkent.

AnneMarie and her partner explore the ancient rock-cut architecute of Petra
While in Jordan, AnneMarie and her partner spent two days exploring Petra. AnneMarie for Lonely Planet

Petra, Jordan

AnneMarie McCarthy, Destination Editor

1. Where I stayed: With only one night in Petra we opted to spend a little more and stay at Petra Guest House, right next to the entrance. The convenience alone was worth it but the staff were exceptional; warm and friendly with great local advice too. It’s also home to the Cave Bar which has a claim on being the oldest bar in the world. Either way, the local beer is cold and the bar open to all; perfect for a post-hike refresher. 

2. Best experience: Most people visit the legendary Monastery via 800 donkey-dung-covered steps. Those that know better get there via the Back Door trail. Wandering past dramatic mountain vistas and Bedouin tea shops in almost perfect peace, you’ll cover double the amount of ground in almost the same time and it’s an easier hike. 

3. My tip: Just go! It’s easy to be dissuaded by events in the wider Middle East but, aside from a sliver of its border region, Jordan is deemed safe to visit and now is a perfect time to experience its wonders without the crowds.

L: Skulls on Skull Island. R: Woman sitting by waterfall.
Two very different sides to the Solomon Islands. Jessica Lockhart for Lonely Planet

Solomon Islands

Jessica Lockhart, Destination Editor: 

1. Local insight: You’re not going to find all-inclusive resorts in the Solomons. Nothing runs on time, connectivity is limited, and air-conditioning is far from guaranteed. Yet, it’s an easy place to travel and it’s incredibly safe. English is widely spoken and Pijin is easy to understand. And as my host for the week, Eldona, explained, helping one another is considered kastom (custom). It’s deeply embedded in the culture and extended to visitors.

2. Can’t miss: All of it. Highlights included a cultural performance in Kuila, a village that speaks the endangered Savosavo language, and hiking to a steaming hot waterfall, courtesy of the Savo Island’s active volcano.

3. Unexpected surprise: Evidence of the country’s head-hunting past can be seen on Skull Island, where the skulls of local chiefs are displayed alongside those of their conquests. On our hike to a set of twin waterfalls, we passed the remains of ancient taro gardens. 

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