Well, it’s been quite the year of eating, hasn’t it? From buzzy new openings to rediscovered stalwarts, London’s food scene has kept us on our toes, and its tables, for months on end.
Over 2024 we’ve seen chefs embracing hyper-local ingredients, diners warming to bold, unexpected flavor pairings, and menus that tell unforgettable stories. So, while December might be the year’s final foodie act, it’s no time to slow down. If anything, it’s the perfect moment to indulge, reflect, and toast the extraordinary talent that keeps this city’s gastonomic heart beating.
Here’s to another year of first-class culinary adventures, and the final five restaurants that have made December’s ‘where to eat and drink in London’ shortlist—each deserving of a first and/or last hurrah.
1. Rambutan
One of Borough Market’s all-time bests, Rambutan is a joyful riot of traditional Sri Lankan flavors and top-tier ingenuity. Cynthia Shanmugalingam’s debut restaurant delivers on its promise of bold, open-fire cooking on both its a la carte and tasting menu, but for £40 ($50) per person, I’d have to push you towards the latter. It’s a largely veg-forward affair, but dishes like the charred muscat grape pachadi will satisfy even the most stubborn meat eater. The gundu dosas, perfectly golden and served with coriander sambol, are worth a visit alone. Just note: walk-in tables are a rarity, so book in advance where possible.
10 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
2. Behind
Behind
For something entirely different, Behind in Hackney offers a completely different experience. With just 18 seats circling an open kitchen, dining here feels entirely un-London. For a restaurant that managed to get a Michelin star within weeks of opening, it’s all a bit fun, really. Chef Andy Beynon’s fish-focused tasting menu is the star, with seasonal British ingredients transformed into dishes as refined as they are inventive–though they’ll never tell you what’s on the menu before you arrive. Without spoiling the surprise, I can assure you any fans of punchy yet delicate dishes and experimental flavors will be most delighted.
20 Sidworth St, London E8 3SD
3. Akara
Akara
Back to Borough Market (I know, I’m obsessed) for a trip to the frankly-flawless West African flavors of Akara. Set under the area’s infamous brick arches, the restaurant stands celebrates the continent’s diverse culinary heritage, led by a selection of delectable Yoruban akaras (get the crab kulikuli variety, or else). Think Efik rice that hums with spice, fried chicken bites crisped to perfection and served with Sosu Kaani, a BBQ cod collar that might just change your life. With a subtle nod to Brazilian Acaraje woven throughout most dishes, Akara has become a destination in its own right.
Arch 208, 18 Stoney St, London SE1 9AD
4. Pied à Terre
Pied a Terre
Pied à Terre is a classic, but not in the serious, stale sense that just settled into your mind’s eye. Over three decades since opening, this Michelin-starred gem on Charlotte Street (it has, in fact, the longest-held Michelin star in the city) remains as reliable and remarkable as ever. Executive chef Phil Kearsey, formerly of Annabel’s, now leads the kitchen, weaving classical French technique into menus that cater to every palate, with a number of dishes inspired by his own not-so-guilty pleasures (see: the best ‘dippy eggs’ you can imagine). There’s a quiet luxury to the experience here–dimmed lights, white tablecloths, a sommelier who knows just what to pour–without any pretension. Quite simply, it’s the kind of place that reminds you why fine dining still matters and why some very special restaurants will never go out of style.
34 Charlotte St., London W1T 2NH
5. Lolo
Lolo
Bermondsey has been buzzing about José Pizarro’s latest opening, and for good reason. Lolo is a luxe little extension of the chef’s postcode-wife monopoly, with all of the culinary intrigue to woo people away from the original tapas bar next door–or, at least, woo them away from queueing up for a table in the rain. Though it had some teething issues, the menu is now a curated mix of comfort and creativity: classic devilled with Sobrasada are served all day, and the ‘lazy’ Iberian 5J ham shoulder omelette, combined with caramelised onion and homemade crisps, is a thing of junk food dreams. A space for lazy breakfasts and spirited dinners alike.
102 Bermondsey St, London SE1 3UB