For three decades and counting, any culinary conversation with the world’s jet-setters is incomplete without mention of Nobu Matsuhisa – or Nobu San to you and me. His restaurants grace the world’s primest locations, his name is synonymous with innovative Japanese cuisine, and his partnership with Robert De Niro set the highest of standards in combining food with fame. So what’s the secret sauce? The recipe for success? How did he build an empire? For Nobu San it’s simple: gaining freedom to break from tradition and treating his business as family.
First, to the birthplace of an earlier empire – the Incas – and more recently a bear named Paddington. Nobu San’s decision to go to Peru opened up a world of difference, which became the cornerstone of his culinary philosophy, the foundations of his global success, and the indelible mark he has made on the world of hospitality. The transformation from traditionally trained chef to culinary innovator began in bustling Lima, where Nobu San first encountered approaches to seafood that challenged everything he knew: “I was born in Japan. I grew up in Japan. I trained in Japan. And then went to Peru and it was like freedom.”
While Japanese cuisine is bound by strict rules, “sushi has to be like this, sashimi has to be like this,” his time in Peru showed him a different way. Working there, Nobu San was blown away by ceviche, where fresh fish is prepared with onions, garlic, chilies, lemon juice instead of the soy sauce and wasabi as he was used to. This marked the beginning of a period of exploration. Nobu San travelled for ten months, through the Middle East, Australia, Africa, Asia. While ultimately his vision couldn’t be constrained by borders, he remains highly respectful of each country’s traditions – including Japan’s. He encourages those who haven’t visited the country yet to do so.”
Nobu’s clientele expect the best – but no more so than its eponymous founder. Nobu San is unwavering in his commitment to quality – there is no room to cut corners. “I never say no to using any expensive products,” he states firmly, “like white truffles, Japanese beef, caviar, and the very best quality fish.”
In the world of business, there is only one thing he cares more about than freedom: his people. I met Nobu San in the elegant luxury of the penthouse suite of Nobu Hotel London Shoreditch, where he was staying to celebrate Nobu’s (the company, that is) 30th anniversary. He was accompanied by Andrew Milne, the Director of Operations UK, EU, Middle East and Africa/EMEA at Nobu Restaurant Group. “I started as a commis waiter, a busser, polishing plates was my first week,” explains Milne, “but because of the system Nobu has created, the training and the attention, you can go anywhere. He always speaks about the business like being a mom-and-pop business, and we are very much like a family.” Nobu San adds: “A lot of people supported me, so I like to support the next generation of people. I like to support people as much as possible to get to the next level.”
He is at pains to explain that honest communication is key to his success. He speaks clearly about what he wants and expects the same from others. To realise your vision, you need clarity of communication.
“At the beginning, I never thought about my plan or what my end goal is,” Nobu San says. “I still don’t know my end goal.” His priorities are simple though: “I don’t want a nice car, or big house. I would like to keep healthy.” Nobu San adds: “It has been a very organic growth. And the growth has been through relationships”… “This goes all the way back to Robert De Niro.”
Looking back on his extraordinary journey so far, Nobu San says: “I have so much appreciation for the people [who work for me], for my country, for my industry, for my teachers, and for my family.” This is a legacy.