Italian Wineries Remain Optimistic In Today’s Uncertain Wine Climate

Many of today’s wine industry headlines predict doom and gloom for the year ahead. As Cyril Penn of Wine Business Monthly explains in Outlook & Trends: Beyond the Negative Headlines, “There’s no way to sugar coat it: the value of wine sales is flat and in terms of cases sold, the industry is down.”

While the industry is experiencing rocky times, headlines do not tell the entire picture. According to WineCap, the key trends indicating demand for sustainably made, terroir-driven wines, specifically Italian, are cautiously positive. This is supported by a February 2025 Wine Intelligence report indicating the resilience of Italian wines under current market pressures.

Italian wineries are feeling the economic pressure, to be sure. Yet decades of commitment to producing terroir-focused wines using sustainable practices, many Italian wineries are buttressed for today’s economic and consumer headwinds.

Cecchi

In the hills of Chianti Classico, Luigi Cecchi founded Cecchi Winery in 1893. For more than 130 years later, the winery has built of legacy of producing exceptional quality wines through terroir cultivation. Andrea Cecchi, President and CEO of Cecchi Winery, explains every choice in the vineyard and cellar is thoroughly scrutinized. “Cecchi’s production philosophy focuses on two objectives: the quality of the wine produced and its link with the territory to which it belongs,” he says.

To achieve this, they rely on a greater human presence in the vineyards to interpret the different viticultural stages. In the cellar, technology is utilized in respect of the grapes and vintage, while safeguarding energy consumption.

Today, Cecchi’s five estates produce 8,500 bottles annually and are distributed in over 65 countries. “The American market is and remains without doubt the main non-European reference for Italian and Tuscan wines,” Cecchi says. Yet, he acknowledges due to the U.S. economy, the winery must remain diligently focused on promotion and elevation of their brand.

Beyond the U.S. economic challenges, Cecchi sees the global wine crisis and climate change as the “two most challenging aspects of our time” from a production perspective. “Wine culture, quality, organic and respectful vineyard, and resource management will have a great impact on the future of us all,” he says. “We are doing a great job and are willing to proceed strengthening our sustainable approach while working relentlessly on quality.”

However, Cecchi looks with excitement to the future. This year, the winery releases their 2021 Coevo Toscana IGT, their Super Tuscan project combining the best of Chianti Classico and Maremma. “It is a wine that embodies the two identity souls of our company,” says Cecchi. Furthermore, they are debuting their Aminta estate in Montalcino’s hamlet of Castelnuovo dell’Abate area, as well as two new white wines and a rosé this year.

Marchesi Alfieri

At the intersection of Roero, Langhe, and Monferrato, in Italy’s storied Piedmont region, where vineyards meld among hazelnut groves and forests, the winemaking legacy of Marchesi Alfieri began in 1696. Twenty hectares of historical old vines mingle with younger plants spread across four hills tell the story of place—where Nebbiolo, Barbera, Grignolino, and one-hundred plus year old Pinot Noir grow.

For Mario Olivero, winemaker of Marchesi Alfieri, their viticultural and winemaking philosophy is simple, seeking balance by not forcing but guiding nature through low-impact means in a manner that allows for the best expression of the grape.

Olivero says climate change perturbations continue to concern the winery. “Our main concern in recent years has been climate change and how to best manage temperature and water fluctuations­—both of which can affect vine health and grape development,” he says.

Maintaining natural grasses between rows in the vineyard and monitoring weather conditions closely to keep vine treatments to a minimum aid in their sustainability commitments. “We are focused on the agronomic aspect, investing more and more in vineyard management techniques and the continuous care of our vines,” says Olivero.

The United States is an important market for Marchesi Alfieri. Olivero explains their aim is to continue to grow their presence by expanding into new states with importers who share their philosophy, “one that values tradition while championing Piedmont’s most significant native grape varieties,” he says.

For example, Olivero explains the winery “loves the uniqueness and somewhat rebellious character” of Grignolino, an indigenous red wine grape often dismissed for lack of depth and charm. But according to Olivero, proper soils, vineyard management, and cluster thinning can result in an intriguing, complex, and age-worthy wine.

“This wine strikes a beautiful balance between aromatic freshness and tannic persistence, making it a great match for a variety of foods,” he says. “Above all, it’s a grape that stands out as something genuinely different from anything found in Italy or elsewhere.”

Brigaldara

Stretching over 140 hectares, 47 under vine, north of Verona, in Italy’s storied Valpolicella region, resides Brigaldara. Born in the year 1100, its history is synonymous with Italy. After changing hands many times, the Cesari family purchased the estate in 1928, Azienda Agricola Brigaldara was born.

Today, under the helm of Stefano Cesari and his two sons Lamberto and Antonio, Brigaldara cultivates the unique biodiversity of place through sustainable methods in the vineyard and cellar with a goal of enhancing the diverse terroir in producing their style of Amarone—one that embraces the grapes aromatic profiles for a more approachable style.

“One of our main concerns is the perception of Amarone,” says Antonio Cesari. “Despite our continuous efforts to craft Amarone wines with elegance and drinkability, it remains challenging to bring them back to consumers’ tables. This is partly due to the category’s historical reputation as a ‘jammy wine’ and the impact of its high price point.”

One way of overcoming Amarone’s perception is through introducing other Valpolicella DOC wines, including Ripasso, to U.S. consumers. “We are excited about the growing interest in medium-bodied wines, such as our Valpolicella DOC, Valpolicella Superiore DOC Case Vecie, and Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso DOC,” shares Cesari. “Consumers in the US market are increasingly appreciating these styles for their balance, drinkability, and versatility with food.”

Brigaldara mission expands beyond wine, to encompass truffles, olive groves, and surrounding areas. They steward a visionary bond, linking past and future. However, this legendary winery is not without concern of today’s economic climate.

“Inflation has affected the wine market post-COVID, making premium wines less accessible,” Cesari says. “Additionally, we are closely monitoring potential trade policies. We hope that the new U.S. government will not increase taxes on incoming products from Europe.”

Vecchie Terre di Montefili

History, nature, and winemaking tradition intertwine in the Tuscan hills between Greve and Panzano in Chianti Classico. It is here that three friends–two Americans and one Italian–began and extraordinary adventure. Under the talented and expert guidance of agronomist and winemaker, Serena Gusmeri, Vecchie Terre di Montefili was born.

The bond of friendship and shared passion for Italian food, wine, and culture has transformed a dream into a unique reality.

As part of the Panzano bio-district, Italy’s first organic wine district, Montefili seeks to communicate the essence of Chianti Classico and Super Tuscans through a sustainable approach. “It’s not just my job, it’s my life,” says Gusmeri. “I live five minutes away, I always use an organic approach, everything is connected.”

With 12.5 hectares of vines, Montefili crafts a range of wines, from rosé and Chianti Classico to Super Tuscans centered on Sangiovese. With Sangiovese vines dating back fifty years, Gusmeri takes clippings from the old vines to plant new ones. “We are all Sangiovese addictive,” says Gusmeri. “It is incredible to make wine from an old vineyard.”

Like many small wineries, finding a U.S. importer can be challenging. The same is true for Montefili. “We can say we are in contact with a national importer, so this would be the crowning achievement of all our efforts. Of course, being small, having just one partner is very helpful in improving our presence, so fingers crossed because we should close soon.” Additionally, tariffs are also on Gusmeri’s mind. “Concerns are certainly the potential tariffs, which could make growth in the U.S. even more challenging,” she says.

Reason For Optimism

While concerns loom for Italian wineries in this time of uncertainty, the industry and wine professionals remain optimistic.

“Italian wines offer high-quality budget friendly and premium drinking options for the U.S. consumer,” says Bailey Roberts, Southern Glazer’s on-premise sales consultant. “Italian wines are inherently food wines, adding an elevated experience to social gatherings, dinner parties, and dining out excursions.”

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