Even in our socially distanced reality, you can feel the love with rosés from the old world
Connect the dots with old world roses
Illustration: LBortolot
Whether you’re spending Valentine’s Day socially distanced or in your pod, don’t let the day pass without some rose-colored glasses. These bottles will cover you, no matter the company you keep.
Two duos of Italy and France rosés
Courtesy of producers
Bertrand Senecourt “Beau Joie” Brut Rosé. This Champagne wins the prize for the most fashion-forward packaging. The producer says its copper casing was inspired by knights’ armor and the copper roofs of Paris, but maybe they never sat a Jean Paul Gaultier show. The unconventional packaging holds a wine that does not lack for personality: a pronounced chalky nose, lots of ripe red fruits and a kind of zaftig sexiness. $99
Castello di Cigognola, Moratti Rosé, Oltrepò Pavese Metodo Classico DOGC, Italy. Made of 100% Pinot Nero (noir), this salmon-colored wine comes from north central Italy’s Lombardy region in an appellation that’s coming on the radar for well-priced sparklers made in the traditional method. Made from grapes at the highest vineyard in the estate, this is a super fresh, dry expression: young, small raspberry, strawberry and tart currants dominate. It spends 60 months on the lees, so it has good substance and staying power for a few years, too. $33
Charles Heidsieck Rosé Reserve. A statement wine that’s old-school classic but not tiredly traditional. Lovely black-tea notes, a seductive brioche yeastiness that strikes a familiar chord and brings you home to traditional Champagne. With its deeper expression of red fruits and toasted/roasted complexity, this is a wine that goes with a diversity of foods. Perfect with cured charcuterie. $87
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La Montina 2010 Franciacorta Rosé Extra Brut, Italy. Another high-quality metodo classico sparkler from Lombardy, Franciacorta closely mimics Champagne in grapes and production method, but, in fact, has stricter regulations than Champagne—longer aging, for example (this one aged for 30 months on its lees). The color of wild-caught salmon with coppery flashes, this Pinot-Nero (noir) driven wine is marked by wild flowers, ripe red berries and orchard fruit delivering a sun-sweetened expression, in a decidedly dry wine. $30
A classic trio of rosé Champagnes
Courtesty of producers
Lanson “Le Rosé.” Another Champagne stalwart brand that never went out of style (it made a cameo appearance in the popular Netflix series, “Call My Agent”). Lanson’s rose Champagne was one of the first, and remains part of its core range. The blend favors Pinot Noir (53%) and is made from 35% of reserve wines. Strawberry and raspberry inflected with a clean mineral streak, not too heavy on the autolysis. One hundred crus go into the blend, of which 50% are grand and premier crus—labor and attention that makes this a premium wine for a reasonable $70
Laurent Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut. Though it’s another steadfast in the Champagne canon, LP stands out with a certain kind of exuberance—elevated by red-floral florals, a spicy anise note, a saline mineral streak and fresh early-morning-market red-berry fruit pops. The persistent mousse has staying power so you can take this from aperitif to the table. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, it has a good structure and some deep fruit notes that make it a good gastronomic wine. $99
Ruinart Brut. Seductive with its yeasty aromas, this is a big wine to have at a VIP dinner in your chateau (you do have one of those, right?) Deep, opulent with floral notes and late-summer red fruits like ripe raspberries, currants, cherries and wild strawberries, it has a forward-pushing smoky-savory subtext. It you’re going to violate social distancing rules and get cozy, take this Champagne along with you. $88