In the introductory post to this mini-series, I suggested that we shift perspectives and expand our exploration of wine this holiday season into neighborhoods, avenues and side streets that we aren’t used to. Since consumers are not “consumers as usual” this year, then wine is not business as usual either. If there was ever a time for a new tack, then 2021 could very well be it.
The idea, at one level, of shifting perspectives is to consider wines that reflect the growing commercial interest in responsible production and consumption, namely the social and environmental impact of wine and also mindful consumption. That was the focus of the first post in this series.
The second idea, that is the focus of today’s posts, is to transition from commercial “interest” to the physical and literally embodied “experience” of wine as a visitor and tourist. This time it’s about re-orienting our attention from the wine-roads-well-traveled to the those that, if not exactly newly constructed, are far less frequently navigated.
That’s the idea of shifting perspective. Fresh vistas. Unknown scenery. And, if we’re lucky, unknown grapes as well, plus wines we hadn’t tried before, and new acquaintances that expand our enjoyment of the landscape of wine.
New Neighborhood of Wine, Part One: San Benito County
I’ve organized this content in two “new neighborhoods” of wine but it’s important to establish the premise that “new” is relative. California’s San Benito County, and the tiny Cienega Valley AVA that it contains, are a location of historical importance in terms of vineyards, Spanish Missions and heritage clones.
The Cienega Valley AVA, or American Viticultural Area, is anchored by Eden Rift winery; the AVA was established formally in 1982 and the land on which Eden Rift sits has been under vine since 1849. The AVA, which is part of the greater Central Coast AVA, is also positioned along the San Andreas Fault, which is a fact of geography whose viticultural influence cannot be underestimated.
Through time and experimentation, chardonnay and pinot noir have been identified and cultivated as signature varietals of Eden Rift’s particular terroir, though I’m personally drawn to the winery’s expressions of pinot gris and to the historical significance of its own-rooted, head-trained zinfandel, planted in 1906. That history is tied, and for me enhanced, by the architecture of the site, namely by the Dickinson House which is dated to the same year and embodies the Prairie School style of Frank Lloyd Wright. As a space for tasting wine, it is grounded, intimate and organic, which led to an experience that was historical, unique and of-the-place; for me there was a sense of being-here-now, tasting-here-wines.
“How have I never been here before?”
That’s a reasonable question to ask as a first-time, wine-loving visitor to this corner of San Benito County, especially one with some experience of various areas of California wine country. Enter “Hollister” into your GPS, which is for most visitors the most recognized town name and local point of orientation, and you’ll see that it’s about 100 miles south of San Francisco, and just 60 miles south of the San Jose airport in Silicon Valley.
In other words, it’s a super close, easily accessible wine-road-less-traveled.
Due homage is paid to the chardonnay and pinot noir that are the hallmark of the region and its limestone-rich soils, most notably at Calera near Mt. Harlan, almost 40 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. (“Calera” itself means lime kiln in the Spanish language.) The homage is warranted, to Calera’s single-vineyard pinot noir in particular, and I was also happy to taste the playful expressions of chenin blanc, aligoté and viognier from their white wine portfolio.
From a visitor’s perspective, the prevailing sense was one of exhale. It’s close enough to California wine country without the pretense of California Wine Country. The history of the site and the quality of the wines buoy the experience without an overblown affect. The region balances the rigor and confidence of quality winemaking with a relaxed, comfortable presentation to guests.