The 2022-2023 duck and quail hunting seasons in Texas have been unusual. This winter, warmer than normal weather led to a drought throughout Texas, leaving marshes and fields across the state uncharacteristically empty.
While wild fowl hunters might have appreciated the more mild climate, the lack of water has made redhead, pintail, and teal ducks rather elusive this season. Bobwhite quail, the most common species in Texas, faced a similar issue. Dry weather heavily impacted quail habitats and populations, leaving once bountiful hunting grounds barren, with the season still open until February 26.
So, where were all the birds?
This year, the coastal region of South Texas was cushioned from the drought, making it a top destination for teams of duck and a quality habitat for quail. With these prized fowl flocking south, hunters did too – and on crowded public hunting land, chances are they saw more camouflage than feathers.
As avid yet disappointed outdoorsmen look towards next season, a couple of South Texas ranches could be the solution. Powderhorn North Ranch and Arrowhead Ranch offer an unparalleled chance to not only hunt, but perhaps even own some of the best wingshooting land in the state.
Powderhorn North Ranch is known for its exceptional duck hunting. Located just southwest of Port O’Connor, Texas (another great duck hunting spot), this 1,350-acre property boasts a mile of lake frontage peppered with marshes and wetlands. The coastal prairie is the perfect winter destination for gadwall, widgeon, pintail, canvasback, redhead and teal ducks, and because of its proximity to the future Powderhorn State Park, it will be surrounded by pristine land for many years to come.
“Powderhorn North’s owners have taken dutiful care of the land and its resources,” says Chad Foster, owner and founder of Foster Farm & Ranch Real Estate. “This has allowed the area’s population of shorebirds, wading birds, and waterfowl to thrive, and its consistently seen teams of ducks during the season. It’s a duck hunter’s dream.”
Further south, Arrowhead Ranch is an impressive 9,780 acre property located 30 miles northwest of Edinburg, Texas. This ranch has been carefully maintained to cultivate the native bobwhite quail habitat. Today, the population numbers in the tens of thousands. Arrowhead Ranch has multiple fields solely dedicated to quail hunting, and on a typical full-day hunt, 20-30 coveys containing 15-25 quail are found consistently.
“Quail hunting is known to be in the top tier of outdoor traditions in Texas,” says Foster. “South Texas has some great hunting locations, but Arrowhead Ranch is unique because of the time and effort the previous owners put into caring for the bobwhite quail habitat. With proper maintenance and smart hunting practices, it can support a large, healthy quail population far into the future.”
Trading their orange vest for an apron, hunters-turned-chefs shouldn’t shy away from trying something new. With so many ways to cook a duck or quail dish, it’s no surprise that the birds have captured the attention of some of the best chefs in Texas. Whether roasted, grilled, fried, or braised, these game birds can make a delicious dinner.
“The major Texas duck species can be split into two categories, dabbling or puddle ducks like the mallard, gadwall, wigeon, pintail, shoveler and teal, and the diver ducks like the redhead, scaup and ringneck,” says award-winning chef Jesse Griffiths, owner of Dai Due in Austin, an avid hunter and cookbook author on the subject.
“Puddle ducks typically taste a little better and are best when plucked, leaving the skin intact. This can be done by dry-plucking, or by using a specially formulated wax for getting the feathers off. Divers can be plucked, or skinned. Since they’re usually a little more strongly flavored, some people prefer to skin them, as the skin and fat can harbor a lot of that muddy taste they sometimes have.”
Griffiths cooks puddle ducks like he does small domestic ones, with medium-rare seared breasts being the basic approach. “Confit, made by seasoning the birds first and then gently stewing them in pork or duck fat, is a favorite of mine and can be done with the legs or even split halves of the bird,” he says.
“The tender confit can then be grilled or broiled until the skin is crisp. I love making pasta sauces with ground duck, pancetta and mirepoix, too. Diver ducks are great for gumbos, pasta sauces and curries. The hearts, livers and cleaned gizzards shouldn’t be discarded, either. They’re very good and can be added to gumbo or pasta sauce.”
“Duck’s versatility makes it the most exciting ingredient on our menu,” says Alma Alcocer-Thomas, owner and chef of Austin’s El Alma. “There are so many ways to cook the duck. In our case, we braise the legs in their own rendered fat and then shred it – crispy skin and all. This is the filling for the Poblano Relleno, resulting in a contrast of flavors of the rich, sweet duck against the spicy, fresh chile poblano and the bright chipotle salsa.”
At Italian restaurant Intero in East Austin, Ian Thurwachter uses roasted duck breast as the star protein in a fantastic risotto.
“Duck breast has a satisfying, steaky texture and crisp savory skin, perfect for varied preparations,” says Thurwachter, executive chef and kitchen director. “I love that duck has its own defining taste while also lending itself to be a versatile meat, naturally working well with different cuisines and flavors.”
At Houston’s Goode Company the menu always includes quail, grilled over mesquite wood to give it a traditional, smokey flavor. “Quail hunting is a traditional pastime in Texas,” says Levi Goode, chef and owner of Goode Company. “Inspired by the time spent hunting and cooking on ranches in south Texas, grilling and smoking quail on mesquite wood is something that we wanted to share with Houston.”
Indeed, quail is available in the menus of several of their concepts around town. “The flavor of quail is more pronounced than chicken but milder than duck,” says Goode. “It is a tasty and succulent bird that is great grilled over hardwood or slow-smoked in a BBQ pit.”
“Quail can be hard to pluck, so be gentle and take your time,” says Griffiths. “Whole or halved quail are amazing simply grilled with a marinade or glaze. Halved quail, brined first and then dredged in flour and fried, are wonderful, especially with a sweet, hot and sour glaze. Whole birds can be stuffed with sausage and roasted, too. The hearts, livers and gizzards, although small, add great flavor to dirty rice.”
All these restaurants serve duck and quail dishes year round, so hunters and fans of the popular game birds don’t have to wait to get their fix after their freezer runs out. And, as hunters prepare for the 2023-2024 seasons, they may consider taking a trip to south Texas to bring home some birds – or possibly a new ranch.