As a travel writer who’s a third-generation San Franciscan and moved back to the Bay Area in 2014 after a years-long global stint, I’ve seen tons of changes in the city, from delightful to challenging. SF debuted a gorgeous new park in the Presidio with sweeping views of the Golden Gate Bridge and skyline, an outdoor education center, exciting food trucks, lots of picnic space and year-round cultural festivals. On the other hand, conventions and retailers have pulled out of downtown due to hard economic times and a declining reputation.
It’s important to remember that every community ebbs and flows, and my love for the city’s resilience and creativity remains strong. Here are the questions I get asked the most about San Francisco.
Is San Francisco safe to visit? Is the Tenderloin really that bad?
Yes, it’s safe
In a nutshell — yes, the city is safe and great to visit. Locals are tired of hearing about San Francisco’s “doom loop” narrative, which promotes the idea that the economic decline of post-pandemic downtown has driven businesses and residents out of the city, which in turn continues to economically and culturally decimate SF, all in a viciously repeating cycle. Many media outlets have chosen to amplify this dramatic narrative, with devastating effects, like reduced tourism. While there are issues with houselessness and drugs (like many other cities) in certain areas, and some people and businesses have indeed left the city, many more have stayed, and even flourished and attracted newcomers.
Grab a bite to eat in the Tenderloin’s diverse restaurants
People’s worries stem from the storied reputation of the Tenderloin and nearby parts of Mid-Market and SoMa that, with a high number of SROs (single-room occupancy) and some open drug use, is not for every visitor. However, the neighborhood is also rich with tons of diverse restaurants – including new ones from established chefs – hopping nightlife like swanky jazz clubs and cheeky dives, uplifting public art, museums, community organizations and families. Use common sense like you would in any big city and make use of a rideshare, like Lyft or Uber, for door-to-door service to minimize walking around the Tenderloin. Don’t keep valuables in cars, including luggage visible in the front or back seats (this advice extends beyond downtown to other tourist-heavy areas such Golden Gate Park and even the posh Marina district).
Should I stay in Union Square, or is downtown dead?
Downtown has a good range of places to stay
While some retail giants and offices have left downtown San Francisco, there is still plenty to see and do, including the picture-worthy cable car turnaround, where passengers board and ride past distinctive Victorian houses all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf. Union Sq is still a good home base with a high concentration and variety of accommodations, especially for visitors who also wish to explore Chinatown and North Beach, both of which are walkable from the neighborhood.
There is so much art to see…
SF’s arts scenes are anchored downtown because it is home to SFMOMA, Yerba Buena Center for the Arts, Museum of the African Diaspora, and smaller galleries, as well as the city’s symphony, opera, ballet, and majestic old theaters like the Orpheum, Curran, and A.C.T. that hosts local and touring plays and musicals.
…and new food halls too
A surprise downtown hit has been the new, huge IKEA, featuring a dazzling two-floor food hall named Saluhall. It features both Swedish classics – like those famous meatballs – and a slew of locally owned, plant-forward food stalls like the city’s only Algerian eatery Kayma and vegan Puerto Rican Casa Borinqueña.
In the rebranded East Cut neighborhood, which encompasses the SoMa area between 2nd St to near the Embarcadero, the new Vacant to Vibrant Program is an innovative way to fill empty office spaces with small, independent local makers on a rotating basis, from food and beverage purveyors to retail and art studios.
The Embarcadero is a good alternative
If wary about downtown, but wanting to stay close to major attractions, consider accommodations close to the Embarcadero. It’s near the food-and-gift-laden Ferry Building (and thus near the ferries to Alcatraz, Angel Island, Sausalito, and more recently, to Treasure Island), plus Embarcadero MUNI and BART station. You can walk along the Embarcadero or take the vintage F Market Line streetcars north to Fisherman’s Wharf and Pier 39, possibly visiting the interactive Exploratorium museum along the way.
Are the famous places really worth it?
Yes! Especially for first-time visitors
For first-time visitors, at least a quick look around the greatest hits of the city – Fisherman’s Wharf, Pier 39, Alcatraz – will be worthwhile. Seeing the bold orange vermilion of the Golden Gate Bridge, hanging red lanterns and narrow alleyways of Chinatown, and the flopping sea lions of Pier 39 helps one to appreciate the history and diversity of the city – architecturally, culturally, and more.
See them by bus tour or MUNI
Efficient ways to do see it all include the hop-on-hop-off route on Big Bus or a full bus tour by Gray Line. If leaning toward public transportation, all MUNI lines run through downtown. Take T Line to the new Chinatown – Rose Pak Station, F Market along the Waterfront, Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde cable car lines to Fisherman’s Wharf and MUNI bus Line 28–19th Ave to the Golden Gate Bridge. Just be aware of time constraints. Alcatraz is almost always crowded, including the long line to queue for ferry boarding. The Golden Gate Bridge is at the very north end of the city, making transportation time to and from there a bit time-consuming.
And don’t miss the restaurants
Just east of Fisherman’s Wharf, the longstanding Ghirardelli Sq, where the Ghirardelli Chocolate Experience itself got a revamp in 2022 from the same design firm behind the Apple stores, has also become home to a surprising number of independent restaurants that both locals and tourists love. From an outpost of Detroit-style pizza purveyor Square Pie Guys to James Beard Award semi-finalist Filipino fine-dining restaurant Abacá, the area’s restaurant renaissance may be worth a sampling tour.
What budget do I need to visit San Francisco?
With the increased cost of food, labor, and more, costs of living in already-expensive San Francisco have gone up. You can either lean into the lifestyle, or enjoy the city for cheap.
Local transport is reasonably priced
Public transportation remains affordable, with single MUNI rides at flat $2.50 with a Clipper card, and BART rides within the city are $2.30. A rideshare across the city will run about $30, depending on time of day.
There are places to stay for all budgets
The lowest-cost accommodations, aside from using sites like Couchers or Trustroots, are shared hostel rooms that begin at $50 at places like Hostelling International. Some boutique hotels and well-known mid-range chains run about $150–200 per night and up. Higher-end hotels can cost $300–500 per night and more. Accommodations from sites like Airbnb and VRBO have a similar price range, but greater choice in geography.
Plan your food and drink spend with this guide to prices
For food, breakfast can range from a massive $8 grilled breakfast burrito from Il Canto Cafe in FiDi, to a filling $22 fried catfish eggs Benedict from either of the Brenda’s locations. The cheapest coffee would be $2–3 drips from no-frills donut shops like Allstar Cafe, to $7.50 for specialty lattes from third-wave coffee shops like Blue Bottle. For lunch, grab a super fresh $5.50 Vietnamese banh mi sandwich from Saigon Sandwich in the Tenderloin, or have a $68 whole Dungeness crab paired with a high-quality congee at Harborview on the Embarcadero. During happy hour it’s still possible to grab $5 pints of beer across the city, but $15–20 cocktails are commonplace, as well. Dinner can range from $8 for a plate of house noodles from the cash-only, Chinese-Burmese Yamo in the Mission, to $200–300 for prix-fixe fine-dining tasting menus like at the modern American Lazy Bear or Japanese omakase at the new, shiny location of old favorite Akikos. Cover for live music at bars usually runs $5–25, though many remain free.
Look for free days at museums
Admission to museums and other attractions ranges from $15–30, but there are free or reduced-admission days throughout the year for many, like at SFMOMA and Asian Art Museum.
What should I eat and drink?
SF is still a hotbed of new restaurants and beloved pop-ups anchoring themselves in brick-and-mortars. The number of new restaurants opening in San Francisco returned to pre-pandemic levels back in 2022, including downtown, and in robust numbers across residential neighborhoods like the Richmond and Portola districts.
There are new and noteworthy openings
The west side’s quaint West Portal neighborhood has seen newsworthy openings lately, from Italian American takeout joint and pantry Little Original Joe’s to the same local family’s ambiance-filled Elena’s, to new Italian wine bar Binu Bonu, arriving with a sterling reputation as sister establishment to Sicilian restaurant La Ciccia in Noe Valley, which features exquisite small plates.
It’s still possible to get a meal for $10 or less
In terms of budget options, the cash-only Saigon Sandwich in the Tenderloin’s Little Saigon remains one of the best and most affordable sandwich shops in the city, with deliciously fresh bánh mí from $5.50 to $7. Breakfast sandwiches have been getting the royal treatment lately, but with many still remaining less than $10, like the popular Breakfast Little Sandwich for $8.99. Lots of pizza by the hands of high-end chefs make slices from $5 to $10, like at the Tenderloin’s Outta Sight Pizza or Divisadero’s Sunset Squares. Takeout dim sum and dumpling spots that are plentiful in Chinatown, Portola, the Sunset and Richmond districts are another way to experience SF-famous rice rolls and more on a budget. And who could forget the city’s robust, mostly affordable Mexican and greater Central and Latin American food scene, extending beyond the well-known Mission-style burritos at El Farolito to El Salvadoran pupusas at La Santaneca to beefy lomo saltado at Mi Lindo Perú.
Fine-dining in San Francisco is affordable
Affordable fine dining is also a real thing, with Michelin-level tasting menus doable at around $100, give or take. Enjoy a $42 prix-fixe seasonal menu at North Beach’s Trestle or three to five courses for $30–95 at the French-Asian Cassava, two- to four-course Malaysian meals for $46 to $89 at the Tenderloin’s Azalina’s, or a 5-course $89 menu at the newly Michelin-starred, local ingredient-driven 7 Adams. Sitting at the bar and ordering off the bar menu is another way to experience fine food for less, and doesn’t require reservations.
Is the Mission still cool? What other neighborhoods are worth visiting?
The Mission is still cool
The Mission is still indeed a great place to visit, whether for daytime shopping at indie shops on Valencia like the odd Paxton Gate or people-watching at the sunny Dolores Park. Nightlife is still hopping in the neighborhood, both along Mission and Valencia, and many pockets in between, from the rollicking dive Kilowatt to the consistently creative cocktail bar Trick Dog.
Explore these surrounding neighborhoods too
But if you want to explore around a little, check out Bernal Heights. It is south of the Mission, still actually on Mission Street, and has its own laid-back bars, many featuring live music like the Royal Cuckoo Organ Lounge and the Knockout. Hayes Valley is also a convenient commute, just east of Civic Center, and the walkable neighborhood has no shortage of restaurants such as a Mano, for fresh pasta, and award-winning cocktails at the ship-themed Smuggler’s Cove.
The residential west side neighborhoods are full of worthy and affordable mom-and-pop restaurants like Yuanbao Jiaozi and the Burmese Mandalay, but also chill bars, like at the “Irish Mile” pubs along Clement St, including the Plough and Stars (great for live music) and the Bitter End.
In the north end of the city, the Marina and Cow Hollow attract the younger bourgeois set with plenty of bars and restaurants. Taste bloody Marys at the longtime Balboa Cafe or ibérico ham xiao long bao on the huge patio of Blue Whale.
How’s the LGBTIQ+ scene these days?
While SF has long been a center of queer culture, it continues to make history, such as with activist Honey Mahogany being appointed the director of SF’s Office of Transgender Initiatives, and her helping to create SF’s official Transgender District in part of the Tenderloin, near the city’s original queer hub of Polk Gulch.
The Castro is still out and proud…
The Castro is still considered the center of SF’s contemporary queer scene, being the home of the GLBT Historical Society Museum and the historic two-story corner bar Twin Peaks Tavern — possibly the first gay bar in the US to have floor-to-ceiling windows symbolizing being out and proud. The annual Pride month in June has gained a reputation for parties and a huge parade that are both community-building and wildly fun.
…and there’s more in SoMa
Part of SoMa has also been named the Leather and LGBTQ Cultural District, celebrating the recent reopening of the Stud, which considers itself the city’s oldest queer bar.
At what types of places should I make a reservation?
Even at fully-booked restaurants, solo travelers and small parties can often walk in for bar seating. Many restaurants also reserve some tables for walk-ins, so the best bet is to arrive early, ideally waiting outside before a restaurant opens. Or go late. However, certain establishments only accept reservations, often released a month or more in advance, like Noodle in a Haystack, which serves rare types of ramen and other high-quality Japanese food. Sign up to receive Open Table’s Notify Me alerts for specific restaurants – you’ll be notified of last-minute cancellations.
Attractions like museums usually have tickets available at the door, unless a popular exhibit requires timed entry, like the recent traveling installation of Yayoi Kusama’s infinity rooms at SFMOMA.
What are some good day trips from San Francisco?
There is so much to do in the city, but for a change of pace, consider taking a day trip from SF. Excursions include those as close as the relaxing coastal towns 15 minutes’ drive south, the vibrant East Bay 30–45 minutes away and redwood trees and wine country in the North Bay 45-minutes north and beyond. Aside from conventional car rental companies, consider car shares, such as Getaround, Zip or GIG, which usually have cars available for pick-up in multiple neighborhoods.
Where should we take the kids?
With so many museums, green spaces and attention to accessibility, much of the city is friendly toward little ones and wheeled things like strollers (except for maybe the hills). Narrow down your family hit list with our guide to what to do in San Francisco with kids.