This series was founded five years ago on the premise that rosé is not limited to the summer season. The proliferation of regions producing pink juice from their native grapes means a wider variety of styles, structures and colors. But one thing they have in common: food friendliness, espeically with transitional-seasonal menus. Indeed, Master of Wine Jancis Robinson writes “I’ve always maintained that rosé is for food not summer – especially the good rosés, made to be wine rather than alcopop substitutes.” Well, all righty! Ya gonna argue her? I thought not, so here are a few to consider:
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Rosé 2022, Columbia Valley. A reliable performer from a stalwart producer in Washington State. Part the “contemporary winemaking series,” this is a pale-colored easy going wine with peach, cherry and watermelon tones. Dry with only 1 gm/RS and 90 calories/glass, but feels solid.
Echolands Winery Rosé of Cabernet Franc Taggart Estate vineyards 2023, Walla Walla Washington.. High toned floral notes along with bright strawberry and summer fruits—and a bowl of fresh cut melon—water, honeydew and cantaloupe. Not at all what I was expecting, which was more the greenish, stalky character CabFranc is known for. The sister rose of Grenache from the Blue Mountain Vineyard is very light in color and temperament, with baby strawberries, a little savory note. This was perfect with a roasted salmon salad of hearty greens and Marzano tomatoes.
Fairsing Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, Yamhill-Carleton AVA. Pretty clover-illustration label reflects the natural wildflower groundcover you see everywhere in this sustainable oriented AVA. This is estate grown, produced from Burgundy clones (Dijon 777 and Pommard). Dried cherry and strawberry, Ver pleasant, maybe too easy to drink down.
Liquid Light Rose, Washington State. Only 95 calories per glass and negligible residual sugar, this Cabernet-based rose, named for the “newly discovered fifth form of matter,” is more substantial than you’d think with it ripe tropical-fruited profile of guava and melon.
Montinore Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, Yamhill-Carleton AVA. Made with organic grapes, this is light pink, very dry, fresh and tangy with its strawberry and red currant flavors and some baked fruit pie notes; vibrant with good minerality
Revelation “Goose Ridge” 2023, Goose Gap AVA, Washington. Blush pink, strawberry and watermelon. An attention-getting label begs for attention, and the wine does not disappoint with young not-quite ripe strawberries and pink grapefruit. Floral nose is inviting.
Shea Wine Cellars, Rosé of Pinot Noir 2023, Yamhill-Carleton AVA, Willamette Valley, Oregon. Tart raspberry, red currant, lively but with some depth. Its round, medium body and earthy soul makes this a good partner to light roasted meats, roasted root vegetables and eggplant any way you serve it.
Why Am I Mr. Pink Mary Ryan Family Wine, Columbia Valley, Washington. Dry, fruit-forward rosé, very accessible, very floral; goes with anything. Drink, don’t think with this one from the Underground Wine Project
ITALY
Donnafugata Sul Volcano 2021 Etna Ro Rosé se DOC (Sicily). A bit sharp with an iodine tone, A little rough and rustic with alcohol on the higher side at 14.1%.
La Valentina Rosé of Ceruso d’Abruzzo. Very cherry all the way, as its name suggests (ceruso is Italian for cherry. Bright cranberry color, direct fruit flavor with a little menthol and savory brush. Creamy aspect, tart, clean, and medium bodied; good length for a rose. Have with balsamic-glazed salmon.
FARTHER AFIELD
Atlantis “Tinta Negra” Rosé, DOP Madeirense (Maderia) An unusual offering from the volcanic island’s terraced vineyards. The grape variety— a crossing of Pinot Noir and Grenache—is usually more of a work horse grown on Madeira, relegated to blends or table wine. But this, single-varietal bottling is a bowl of red fruits but with impressive acidity and a saline thread that speaks of place. Find this and drink!
Chateau Chizay Rosé of Pinot Noir 2022, Ukraine. From a winery founded in 1995 on the former site of a 17th-century winery in the Zakarpattia, the most western wine region in Ukraine region. This dry medium-bodied wine has cherry and strawberry undertones with some earthy tones and ending on a mineral note. The winery is the first in Ukraine to sign the Porto Protocol of sustainability.
Golan Heights Winery, Herman Mt. Herman Rosé 2022, Galilee. This is a Syrah-driven blend that also includes bits of Pinot Noir and Tinta Cao. Accessible and smooth with raspberry and strawberry, black-pepper spice tones. This comes from a high-altitude volcanic soils in a cold-climate area unique to Golan Heights. Copper penny pink, red, crunchy fruit includes cranberry and pomegranate. The winery strives to produce “terroir-driven, Mediterranean wines at a phenomenal price.”
IXSIR Grand Reserve 2023, Batroun District, Mount Lebanon Lebanon. I was undecided about this wine on the three times I sampled it, but, hey, rosé from Lebanon! Give it a chance! And, I was rewarded. The longer it was open, the more it grew on me, moving into a savory and herbal edge with anise in the starring role. The underlying fruits are tropical inflected in this blend of Rhone grapes, and there’s a creamy aspect before leading to the clean, lively. The name IXSIR derives from “Iksir,” the original Arabic word for “Elixir. IXSIR’s vineyards reach an altitude of 1,800 meters.
Mtsvane Estate Pét-Nat Rosé, Georgia. Made of 100% Saperavi. I usually don’t include sparkling wines in the rosé series, but this is a fun fizz popping with red berried and earth tones. And, hey, it’s from Georgia! Non filtered, so it’s a little cloudy but without the funk you often find in such wines. Tin case you’re wondering, the word mtsvane means green.
FRANCE
Cave La Romaine Rosé 2023, IGP Mediterranee. The Grenache-Cinsault blend also includes Caladoc, a Languedoc crossing of Grenache and Malbec varieties. Produced near Mount Ventoux at the foot of the Dentelles mountains, this is very light sea-shell pink, tart and fresh with a little savory and slightly bitter herbal edge to keep things interesting.
Domaine de la Royere Les Oliviers Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon Mediterranee IGP. Hailing from the northern edges of the Petit Luberon, this is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent four months on lees to give it a round and supple character not often found in a CabSauv at this price— a steal at around €9,00. Certified organic.
Domaine Isle Saint Pierre 2023, Mediterranee IGP. Located on a small island in the Rhône River this fourth-generation vigneron from Arles has made a fresh and off-dry wine with tropical fruit tones, ripe, plush guava and melon; the tang of tangerine. Round and a little ripe-fruit creamy, but also hinting at its maritime terroir. A blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet.
Peyre Rosé “Paparazzi” 2022, IGP Mediterranee. This is a fresh and tart rose with deeper red fruit such as last summer strawberries, currants but also laced with pink grapefruit and round flavors of guava and melon. Produced in the region between Gordes and Isle sur al Sorge, in the Vaucluse/Luberon region.